BasicBUILDS
Set the mood with this shimmering table topper
This tealight holder is a fun and inexpensive project, and makes a perfect gift for a friend or relative. Its highlight is the wonderful effect of flickering light through bands of translucent colored epoxy. The “candles” are actually battery-powered flicker lights set in glass votive holders. (Because there’s wood involved, I don’t recommend using open-flame candles.) Both the flicker candles and the glass holders are readily available from most craft stores.
Any clear two-part epoxy resin will work for the colored bands. You’ll need 24 oz. of epoxy—about 12 oz. for each side of the centerpiece. I tinted the epoxy with mica powder, available in many colors from several online sources (see the Buyer’s Guide on p. 60 for what I used). Instead of building an elaborate form to contain the epoxy, I poured it right into the grooves in the block after capping the ends off with scrapwood wrapped in non-stick Tyvek tape.
The finished dimensions of the piece are 3"-thick by 4-1/4" high by 10" long. Instead of sourcing 3-inch thick solid lumber, I glued four boards together to make an oversize block that I trimmed to size after pouring the epoxy. The one shown in the photos is made of maple, but you can experiment with different wood species and various colors to discover your favorite look.
Some of the steps in this project are simple enough for young woodworkers, which hopefully will light the candle of woodworking passion in the next generation.
Glued-up block with grooves for epoxy
Four face-glued maple boards make up the 3"-thick block. Three holes drilled in the top house glass votive holders with battery-powered flicker candles that shine and glimmer through tinted epoxy. Two different-sized grooves on each face hold the epoxy. And an arch at the bottom elevates the piece.
Gluing and grooving the block
Face-glue four boards dressed to about 3/4 × 4-1/2 × 11-1/2" to make an oversized block that you’ll trim later. When dry, joint the centerpiece’s top edge, then plane the bottom to reach final height. Square up the ends at the miter saw for an oversize length of about 11". At the table saw, position your fence to cut the top groove. Then set your dado blade to 3/4" wide and 9/16" high—half the depth. (It’s safer and cleaner to cut these grooves in two passes. Saw the groove on each face, then raise the blade to cut the full 1-1/8" depth and repeat. Reset your fence and dado blade to saw the 1/2"-wide bottom grooves in the same manner.
Joint the block. Joint the top edge of the glued-up block to make a flat surface. Keep the face of the block flat against the jointer fence to ensure square. Clean up the bottom surface with the planer to the finished height.
Square the ends. Crosscut the block oversize in length at the miter saw. Trimming to final length comes after the epoxy has been poured and cured.
Saw the grooves. After sawing the top groove on each face in two passes, reset your fence and repeat the process for the narrower bottom groove. Push pads and featherboards ensure safety and clean, consistent grooves.
Mixing and pouring the epoxy
Each side of the block takes about 12 oz. of epoxy and is poured right into the grooves one side at a time. Cap the ends of the block with scrapwood covered with Tyvek tape (sold at home centers), and pour the colored epoxy to fill the grooves halfway. It’s important to mix in only enough colored mica powder to give a pleasant color, while still maintaining a translucent look to the dried epoxy. If you add too much mica, you might obscure the light from the flicker candles. I used 1/8 teaspoon of mica powder for each 12 oz. pour.
Air bubbles in the epoxy can spoil the light effect. After pouring, make a few passes over the grooves with a heat gun or hair dryer to bring air bubbles to the surface. When the first side has cured, plane it to re-establish a flat and repeat the process on the opposite side.
While working with epoxy keep a few safety pointers in mind. Wear long sleeves, gloves, a respirator and safety glasses to protect yourself from the chemicals. Be sure to read all the instructions and safety warnings of the epoxy product you choose.
Tint the epoxy. Mix the resin and hardener before dropping in the mica powder. Stir the mixture for five minutes, then let it sit for a few minutes to release trapped air bubbles.
Fill the grooves. After capping the ends of the block with tape-covered scrapwood, fill the grooves halfway with the mixture.
Heat out the bubbles. With the grooves half full, make a few quick passes using a heat gun to release trapped air bubbles. Then fill both grooves to the brim, and make another pass with the heat gun. Let the epoxy cure for at least 24 hours.
Plane off the excess. Once the epoxy has cured, re-establish a flat surface at the planer.
Trimming, drilling, and shaping
At the miter saw, crosscut the ends of the block to finished length. Lay out the holes as shown in the drawing on p. 23, and head to the drill press. Clamp the block to the drill-press table and set the depth stop to nearly the full height of the glass holders. It looks nice if the rim of the glass projects slightly above the surface of the wood. Drill a hole in the center using a 2"-diameter Forstner bit (or whatever diameter matches your glass holders). Then drill the other two holes. Next, lay out and trace the arch as shown. Then bandsaw outside the line, cleaning up at the spindle sander. Ease all the corners at the router table using a 1/8" roundover bit. Rout the ends first to minimize tearout. To polish the epoxy, sand from 120 to about 1200 without skipping grits. Use a clear finish (I used Watco Danish Oil) as stains or dyes may minimize the flickering effect. A topcoat is optional.
Drill the holes. Clamp the block at the drill press, and set the depth stop so that the rims of the glass holders project slightly above the top.
Insert the candles. Place the battery-powered flicker lights and glass holders into the centerpiece and enjoy the pleasant mood-setting effect.
About the author
Willie Sandry is a process guy. His designs often begin with inspiration gleaned from antique shops and old catalogs. After that comes detailed drawings and mock-ups, followed by drying his own lumber. “The more control you have over each step of the building process, the better the finished product becomes,” he says.
