With some routing chores, bigger isn’t always better; sometimes it’s a bother. For small-cut jobs, a larger machine is the workshop equivalent of swatting a fly with an elephant gun. Enter the trim router. This prized tool—sometimes called a laminate trimmer—started out in the world of cabinets and countertops, but its uses quickly outgrew its initial intent. Before long, the trim router took up residence in woodworking shops, proving to be the little tool that could.
Palm a trim router, and right away you’ll see the reason for its success, namely, comfort and control that you can’t get from a larger model. As the chart on the opposite page shows, full-sized routers might be more versatile, but for small cuts and trimming jobs, the one-handed tool does more than holds its own. And at a price that’s half to one-third that of the big boys, you can afford the convenience of keeping one or more trim routers pre-loaded with your most-used bits.
Once you’ve seen what a trim router can do, the real question isn’t “Do I need a trim router,” but “Which one do I need?” To help you pick the best one for your shop, and then put it to work, here’s a rundown of what trim routers do well, a quick review of key features, and a must-have bit list.
Trim router specialties
A trim router isn’t designed to make heavy cuts or serve in a router table like beefier models, but there are other tasks where it excels. Because of its light weight and one-handed convenience, you’ll find yourself choosing this tool over bigger routers for more moderate routing chores such as the following:
Ready-to-go edger. While most trim routers have less-powerful motors (1 hp or less), but they’re more than capable of handling the standard arsenal of roundover, cove, and chamfer bits (Photo A). In fact, trimmers will work with almost any 1/4"-diameter shanked bit that will fit though the opening in the base. And perhaps because of this built-in bit-size restriction, most trim routers are geared to run faster than larger, general purpose routers. More cuts per inch translate into cleaner cuts.
The smaller base of a trim router also allows it to go into tighter corners where a larger router can’t fit. The smaller base and lighter weight make it easier to rout along the edges of boards, making it ideal for profiling face-frame edges or flushing up solid-wood edging with a flush-trim bit.
Mighty mini mortiser. For freehand cuts, the lightweight motor and small base provide a handy combination for routing shallow dadoes and grooves on horizontal and vertical surfaces. In addition, most trim routers come equipped with square bases, making them perfect for running along a straightedge.
When equipped with a straight or down-cut spiral bit, a trim router makes mortises more quickly than a chisel ever could. For small jobs, the small router is easy and comfortable enough to use freehand, but you’ll definitely need to switch over to a chisel to finish paring up to your line. For multiple mortises, you reduce chiseling time by outfitting your router with a bearing-guided bit or bushing and making a simple jig like the ones shown on the following pages.
Countertop king. Because a trim router serves in so many ways, it’s easy to forget its original use as a plastic laminate trimmer. You’ll be pleasantly reminded of this tool’s original use the first time you can’t maneuver some workpiece to your workbench. Thanks to their design, trim routers take much of the risk out of the balancing act inherent in trimming the laminate edge of a countertop (Photo B) or flush-trimming solid wood edging on plywood shelves.
Deluxe kits are sold with multiple bases for greater versatility, but some single base kits still come with a trim guide (Photo C), an adjustable bearing-tipped arm that hangs off the base. This can be used not only to turn regular straight bits into bottom-bearing flush trim bits, but also can be moved in or out for additional profile options.
A chamfer bit turns the trim router into a block plane capable of consistently shaping ends and edges in a single pass.
Since most of the base is supported, a trim router can make this cut without tipping. Routing horizontally with a larger router requires an additional fence or guide.
The L-shaped edge guide works like a bottom bearing, taking side pressure off the bit for a cleaner cut. With thin-shanked bits, this can help make a cleaner cut.
Features make the difference
Trim routers start at around $70, but extra accessories or adjustability can add to the price. Check out this list of features and decide for yourself why and where they matter most for your woodworking needs.
Bit Visibility. Since most laminate jobs are bearing-guided, fabricators don’t spend as much time focused on the tip of the bit. It’s a completely different story when you want to rout a freehand mortise. The friendliest bases for woodworkers have large viewing openings or windows; a few even have clear acrylic bases (PHOTO D).
Bit Height Adjustment. The bit height adjustments on the earliest trim routers were basic threaded housings, similar to those found on certain fixed-based routers. While this design works for quick, rough adjustments, it falls short when making a fine depth cut. If you plan on using a trimmer primarily for edge work, you might buy a basic base, set it once, and forget it. However, if you plan to rout delicate inlays, or need to sneak up on the leaf-thickness of a brass hinge, look for a model with a threaded depth adjustment (Photo E).
Speed control. Greater rpms usually translates to cleaner cuts, but at times, too much speed can be a disadvantage. Depending on your feed rate, a super-fast spinning bit can burn dense hardwoods such a maple and cherry. Fixed-speed routers are fine for edging and laminates but you might want to spend a little more on a variable-speed motor if you anticipate careful crawl-cuts, such as up to hinge lines or scribed corners.
A clear plastic base with built-in light maximizes control by enabling you to watch the bit right up to your lines.
Finely-threaded thumbscrew adjustments are your best bet for fine-tuning bit depth when mortising hinges, inlays, or bandings.
Offset and tilting bases work for more than just on-site laminate installations, but the simple square base is the one you’ll use most.
Bit Changing. Trim routers fall into one of two categories—those with a single wrench and spindle lock, and those with a two wrench-collet. Because it’s easy to pinch your palm between the two tiny opposing wrenches, consider a single wrench collet. (Plus, there’s also one less wrench to lose in the shop.) On the other hand, the two-wrench system is a little easier to tighten and loosen. More than likely, your experience with your other routers will help you determine your option here.
Extra bases. Trim routers are sold as single-base units, or in deluxe multi-base kits. You’re likely to find some uses for these bonus bases in your workshop, but they tend to be more suited for laminate and countertop fabrication. The tilting base is designed to trim laminate flush into corners, but by changing the orientation of the bit to the workpiece, it can also serve to create new profiles from old bits. The offset trimmer base relies on a belt-driven chuck that allows the router to cut within 3/4" of a wall or corner. This comes in handy when scribing the back edge of a workpiece for a snug fit or when trimming laminate where countertops meet the wall.
Want our advice? Don’t deny yourself a trimmer just because you can’t afford the multi-base kit; you’ll probably use the standard base most of the time.
Trim Router Jig #1: Homemade Hinge Helper
Mortising a pair of hinges with a mallet and chisel may not seem like a big deal, but add a few more doors, and the job quickly multiplies out of control. A trim router makes quick work of most of the paring, especially when teamed up with a safe and simple jig. To make one, you’ll need a few wood scraps, a hinge or dado bit, and your trim router. What this jig lacks in adjustability, it more than makes up in simplicity.
First, mark out the location of the hinge by setting your marking gauge to the hinge’s setback and scribing a line onto door and case. Now butt the hinge against your scribed line and mark the hinge ends with a sharp marking knife.
Next, clamp a stop to the back face of the workpiece. Glue or nail the back guide to the stop so that its front edge aligns with the setback line. Now glue the end guides to the back guide so that the inside edges align with the scribed lines. (Position the hinge between the guides to check the fit.)
Set the cut depth to the thickness of the hinge leaf then cut the mortise. Rout the edges first then nibble out the middle. Finally, use a chisel to square up the corners. (Leave the jig in place, to serve as a chisel guide.)
Trim Router Jig #2: Better Butterflies
Butterfly inlays can be used to stop splits, strengthen edge joints, or add an eye-catching accent. The bushing-guided inlay bit (Woodcraft #09I16, $39.99,) simplifies mortising work, but also uses the same template to cut perfectly-fitting keys. You can make your own template from a piece of plywood, or buy one that’s ready made, (Woodcraft #146903, $24.99).
To create the socket, first mark the inlay’s location on your board then position the template in place as shown. Install the inlay bit, bushing, and brass spacer onto your trim router and set the cutter depth. To rout the mortise, run the bit clockwise around the edges then remove the waste from the center. Clear away the chips and make sure that you’ve cleaned the cavity before removing the template.
To make the matching key, start with stock slightly thicker than the socket. Lay the board onto a piece of scrap (to protect your bench) and attach the template. Remove the spacer ring from the bushing, set the bit to cut through the key stock, and rout clockwise along the template’s edge. For a flawless key, keep the bushing in constant contact with the template.
Apply glue to the socket, and tap the key in place. Then I let the glue dry overnight before planing, scraping, or sanding flush.
Must-have trim router bits
Here’s a short list of our most-used bits for trim routing. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself buying another trimmer in order to keep your favorites ready to rout.
Edging
1/8" Round Over. Transforms a trim router into a precise, power-assisted sanding block. Tiny radius knocks down sharp edges and ends before they chip, catch, or cut.
Chamfer. Used like a round-over, but the angled edge creates a more deliberate-looking detail seen often in Arts and Crafts-style furniture. Not as quiet, but quicker and more consistent than a block plane.
Beading Bit. Creates a small half-round detail that adds visual interest and eases small gaps (between a door and a face frame) so they look intentional. Run the router along the face and edge to create a full corner bead.
Mortising and template routing
1/2" Pattern-Cutting Bit. Top-mounted bearing lets you put your patterns on top of the wood, making it easy to keep the bearing in touch with the template.
Hinge Bit. Shorter cousin of pattern bit. Can be used with a guide for shallow dadoes, or used to clean up saw marks left by a dado cutter. Perfect partner for shop-made or store-bought hinge templates.
1/2" Flush-Trim Bit. Bottom-mounted bit handy for deeper cuts or taller templates. Adjust the bit height regularly to spread carbide wear.
Bevel-Trim Bit. A cross between a chamfer and a flush trim bit, a bevel trimmer cuts laminate to size and creates a tiny chamfer (usually 22° or 45°) to soften the sharp plastic edge.
