In this article:
Figure 1: Anatomy of a small shop saw dust collection system
Create a Clean, Healthy Environment for Working with Wood
When we first work with wood, taking on a small project here and there and buying a power tool or two, addressing the mess of sawdust and chips with a broom and dustpan seems reasonable enough…and cheap. But as our passion grows and the projects become more frequent and involved, our investment in machines increases as well. And so does the sawdust. That’s when we cough up the bucks for one or more portable shop vacuums to help police the area. You’ll also want to consider your overall shop air quality.
Eventually, we realize that our paltry militia of maintenance tools falls behind the volume of sawdust and chips. We ask: Is my shop a candidate for a central saw dust collection system? Can I even afford dust collection on a budget and the necessary dust collection fittings? And, if so, can I plan and install it myself?
Working with experts Robert Witter and Jeff Hill of Oneida Air Systems, a major player in workshop dust collection, we’ll help you answer these and other questions, and provide you with several options. By story’s end, you’ll know what a dust collection separator is and how to proceed without getting mired in math.
Why Central Dust Collection Makes Sense
For the woodworker who wants a saw dust collection system for the home workshop, a “dedicated hobbyist,” who spends hours every week making furniture, having dust collected at every machine means convenience and time savings. With the right system, cleanup at the end of the day may amount to five minutes instead of half an hour or more.
In addition, according to Jeff, “a good central DC will cycle and clean air in a shop more effectively than any ceiling (air–filtration) box. It moves more air, has better filtration and pre-separation, and works with gravity to pull dust downward.” He also notes that a whole-shop system has numerous ports and dust collection fittings around the room to collect from, not just one port up high. The end result: an overall healthier shop environment and reduction of the slippery fine dust on the workshop floor.
The downside? Cost. For a one-man 20' x 30' workshop with a standard layout of stationary machines and portable power tools, the price tag can run several thousand dollars for a quality collector and the rest for fittings, pipe, and hose. But the cost doesn’t negate how seriously we need to take wood dust in woodworking shops. This high-end approach would include an efficient two-stage cyclone dust collector with metal pipes and fittings. However, you can work up to a whole-shop system by starting with a quality dust collector and filter and adding ductwork in stages as your budget allows and needs arise.
Says Robert, “Customers tell us that they wished they had installed a cyclone system with ducting first, instead of spending years with bags, mobile collectors, overhead units, masks, and other less effective measures.” But for the hard-charging weekend warrior, there may be a less expensive alternative.
Opt for a Portable Dust Collector
If budget and space rank among your concerns for workshop dust collection, you may find a portable collector to be the perfect dust solution, like the one shown below. At the low end, you can pick up a 1 hp unit that’s powerful enough to collect from the biggest chip-maker in your shop for relatively cheap. Of course, it collects from one machine at a time, so you’ll need to move it from tool to tool as you work through a milling sequence. Be aware, however, that many of the single-stage bag collectors pump fine micron dust back into the air while retaining the larger debris. In this case, upgrade the collector with an after-market bag or pleated cartridge with ASHRAE tested-and-rated 1-2 micron or better filter.
Or, you can get a 1-1/2 hp dust collector (the most horses you can hope to run off 110 volts). These mid-sized units can connect to two machines at the same time with dual 4" ports or one 6" port. That said, you’re best off capping or blast-gating one port and collecting from one machine at a time. For a superior saw dust collection system in the category: spend a few more bucks and buy a two-stage portable dust collector. Says Robert, “The objective is to provide enough CFM at the machine to capture nearly all the dust and then consolidate and filter it down to the smallest particles. A portable can do this if it can pre-separate waste and capture 99% of the 1-2 micron fine (flour) dust.” A portable also lets you save the cost of running ductwork throughout your shop.
When shopping for dust collection and air filtration, whether a low-dough mobile unit or a fixed model, brush up on a few terms to know what you’re buying and to assess your needs. Keep in mind that manufacturers’ claims regarding CFM may be grossly exaggerated. Therefore, to ensure efficiency, refrain from collecting from two tools simultaneously unless the collector is 2 hp or greater.
Finally, if you do buy a portable dust collector, implement one or more of the “Secondary Strategies” to achieve your goals for a clean and healthy shop. Also, a benchtop dust collector is a great at-source air filtration unit.
Secondary Strategies
Let these health-smart measures supplement your primary collection efforts:
- Wear an inexpensive dust mask or respirator when creating fine dust from sanding, turning, and similar fine dust operations.
- Ensure that every power tool has a dust port for dust/chip collection.
- If weather permits, ventilate the shop with a box-style window fan to remove fine dust.
- Use a shop vacuum for suitable portable power tools such as sanders and circular saws and outfit it with an after-market pleated HEPA filter. Pair your shop vac with a dust collection separator and make this double-duty dust cart.
- Capture sawdust and chips with passive (gravity) boxes or bags underneath some machines such as a contractor table saw or miter saw.
Opt for Central Workshop Dust Collection
In a typical one-man shop, dust collection fittings like large 6"- or 7"-diameter elbows and pipe stem from the collector and tie into the main trunk line, which also may be 6" pipe. This ductwork may run perpendicularly or diagonally across the shop as shown in Figure 2, or along the walls. It may hang from the ceiling joist, attach to walls with metal straps and fasteners, or run under the workshop floor.
Branch lines stem off the main trunk line via wyes and elbows. These typically step down in pipe size (often to 5"-diameters). The branch lines may again be further reduced to 4"-diameter pipe and flexible hose, depending on the machine or tool ports they service. In some cases you may need to fashion special adapters to collect from some tools, such as a drill press. Keep in mind, however, that the more pipe length, bends, and restrictions you create, the greater the SP (airflow resistance).
But if you ask three woodworkers how to do something, you’ll get four answers. There are several clever dust collection ideas out there.
Figure 2: Shop diagrams showing diagonal and perpendicular pipe layouts
Map Out a Plan for a Saw Dust Collection System
To create your whole workshop dust collection, map out your plan on paper, locating stationary machines, power-tool stations, cabinets, workbenches, and so on. To do this quickly and accurately, check out the Dream-Shop Planner. Draw the perimeter of your shop on the grid, and then cut out the templates that reflect your tools and storage. To help you decide where to locate machines and your dust collector for maximum efficiency, keep these layout considerations in mind:
- Place the biggest chip-makers, such as your planer, jointer, and table saw, nearest to your dust collector.
- Make the main trunk line (with the largest diameter pipe) as short as possible to deliver more air volume; run it perpendicularly or diagonally across the shop. (Running it around the shop’s perimeter is the least efficient way to go.)
- Make branch lines as short as possible as well. Work to keep tools within a 30' radius of the dust collector.
- Locate ceiling drops where vertical pipes won’t interfere with traffic flow and machining operations.
- Allow for return air for collectors installed outside the shop.
- Include clean-out locations in the system for removing clogs. (In ductwork laid out in a concrete floor, go with capped Y-fitting cleanouts to remove debris.)
- Avoid T fittings and sharp 90° elbows which increase static pressure (by putting two T fittings in a system you cut your airflow in half). By contrast, long-radius 90° elbows, 45° elbows, and wyes are your best choices.
- Include a floor sweep to add convenience to shop-floor cleanup.
- Terminate rigid duct lines with blast gates and reducers or adapters for hose hookups.
- Minimize each flexible hose length (from 5' to 10').
Now, locate and tape your cabinet, tool and, dust collector templates on the planner grid. If placing your collector inside, avoid areas that have a gas appliance with pilot lights to prevent the risk of explosion. Regardless of whether your collector is inside or out, use remote switches to easily activate the unit from anywhere in the shop.
Next, tape down a sheet of acetate over your shop layout and draw out your duct system, including the main trunk and branch lines with the pipe widths and lengths noted and the fittings.
Alternatively, learn how to install an automated dust collection system.
Figure the Dust Collection Parts List Based on Your Plan
With your generalized plan on acetate, tally up the specific parts you’ll need. To do this, label the CFM and port sizes for each tool. To determine pipe and fitting needs, avoid messy math by adhering to the following steps regarding pipe runs no longer than 30'. This simplifies pipe and dust collector sizing for most home woodworking shops. Rely on Table 2 to assist you with dust collection fittings and note that pipes come in metal or PVC; fittings in metal, black plastic, or PVC.
- Use 6" pipes and fittings for the main trunk (this may be reduced from 7" at the main collector via a wye or reducer fitting). Calculate the linear pipe length and fittings needed.
- Use 5" pipes and fittings for branch lines, reducing them as needed to accommodate the tool ports they will service. Pipes of this diameter can carry a range of 425 to 650 CFM, making them well suited for most of the tools listed in Table 1. Calculate the linear pipe lengths and fittings (connectors, elbows, wyes, reducers, blast gates, adapters and caps) needed. If suspending the system from the ceiling, consider drop lengths as well. In any case, avoid choosing duct diameters that are too small. Try to run the largest diameter you can to the tool ports, referring to Table 1. In some cases, you can increase the tool port size for better collection.
- Figure the lengths and diameters of the flexible hose and hose clamps needed to match the tool ports.
- Include 2"-wide aluminum tape, industrial-grade silicone sealant, sheet metal screws, and metal strapping for hanging pipes.
- Make a dust collection parts list on paper for purchasing and installing.
Table 1: Airflow requirements (CFM) for shop machines*
| TOOL | CFM | PORT SIZE |
| 12"-14" Bandsaw | 400–500 | 4"–5" |
| 14"-20" Bandsaw | 400–700 | 5"–6" |
| Belt Sander (6" wide or less) | 450 | 2"–4" |
| Stationary Belt Sander (13" wide or more) | 550 | 3"–6" |
| Disc Sander (12" dia. or less) | 350 | 4"–5" |
| Drum Sander (13"–24" wide) | 500–600 | 5" |
| Floor Sweep | 350 | 6" |
| Jointer (6"–8" wide) | 350–500 | 4"–5" |
| Jointer (8"–12" wide) | 450–700 | 5" |
| Lathe (mini) | 450 | 5" |
| Lathe | 650–800 | 6" |
| Miter Saw / Radial-Arm Saw | 400–600 | 5" |
| Router (table-mounted) | 200 | 2"–4" |
| Shaper (3/4 hp–3 hp) | 300–550 | 4" |
| 10" Table Saw (contractor or cabinet) | 450–600 | 5" |
| Thickness Planer (10"–13" wide) | 500–600 | 5" |
| Thickness Planer (18"–20" wide) | 785 | 6" |
*If your collector is rated for 1,200 CFM, more than likely you can collect from your table saw and jointer (450 + 350 CFM = 800 CFM) at the same time.
Choosing a Whole-Shop Dust Collector
If your one-man home shop contains a variety of machines like those listed in Table 1 and the ductwork (trunk and branch lines) does not extend beyond 30' from the collector, your options are simple. For single-tool collection (only one blast gate open at a time), consider a 1-1/2- to 2-hp collector. For collection from two tools at a time (with all but two blast gates closed), opt for a 2- to 3-hp collector. Use any more than that and you’re indulging in overkill. If your saw dust collection system needs are commercial in nature, seek expert help.
Table 2: Parts for a Small Shop System
| COMPONENTS | COMMENTS | |
 |
Rigid metal pipe (2', 4', 6', 10') | 1"–9" dia.; most home shops land in the 3"–7" range. Good for straight runs; costs more than PVC. |
 |
Flexible hose | 2"–6" dia.; connects rigid lines to tools. Use hose clamps to secure. |
 |
90° elbows (large + sharp radius) | 3"–7" dia.; large-radius elbows help reduce static pressure loss at turns. |
 |
45° elbow | 3"–7" dia.; better option for smoother airflow through turns. |
 |
45° wye-fitting | Preferred for branch lines. Moves air more efficiently than T-fittings. |
 |
Floor sweep | Mounts at floor level for quick cleanup access. |
 |
Connectors | Join pipe sections. Usually secured with screws and tape. |
 |
Blast gate | Controls airflow at branch ends. Often paired with hose adapters. |
 |
Blast gate / hose adapter | Connects flexible hose to machines. |
 |
Reducer | Steps pipe diameter down to match tools or fittings. |
 |
Tool port with flange | Mounts to machines to create a solid connection point. |
 |
End cap | Seals off the end of a branch line. |
TIP ALERT
If possible, do as much of the assembly on the floor for ease of construction.
Install a Metal Dust Collection System Step by Step
Understanding dust collector basics and with your system parts on hand, gather the tools and materials you’ll need for installation. For the metal system featured here, we used a tape measure, felt tip pen, reciprocating saw equipped with a metal cutting blade, a cordless drill, screw driver, 1/2" sheet-metal screws, tin snips, a crimping tool, silicone caulk, a caulk gun, aluminum tape, and hose clamps. Now, solicit a helper and follow this sequence for a quality installation.
Assemble the dust-collector at its planned location, following instructions accompanying the unit. (We attached the motor to the cyclone barrel, and then bolted on the cyclone cone. Rather than secure the unit to the wall with a bracket, we assembled an optional iron frame for sturdy, level support, and then added the dust-bin and cartridge filter assemblies as shown in Photos A and B.)
Lay out the pipes and dust collection fittings on the floor in the vicinity of their installation, following your plan. Then, beginning at the dust collector, fit connectors, elbows, wyes, and pipes together as shown in Photo C to build the main trunk line.
Seal all joints with aluminum tape as you screw components together as shown in Photo D. A second method of sealing pipe is to use an industrial grade silicone sealant as shown in Photo E. Both measures lead to an air-tight system.
Install a metal D-C system step by step
With your system parts on hand, gather the tools and materials you’ll need for installation. For the metal system featured here, we used a tape measure, felt tip pen, reciprocating saw equipped with a metal cutting blade, a cordless drill, screw driver, 1/2" sheet-metal screws, tin snips, a crimping tool, silicone caulk, a caulk gun, aluminum tape, and hose clamps. Now, solicit a helper and follow this sequence for a quality installation.
1 Assemble the dust-collector at its planned location, following instructions accompanying the unit. (We attached the motor to the cyclone barrel, and then bolted on the cyclone cone. Rather than secure the unit to the wall with a bracket, we assembled an optional iron frame for sturdy, level support, and then added the dust-bin and cartridge filter assemblies as shown in Photos A and B.)
2 Lay out the pipes and fittings on the floor in the vicinity of their installation, following your plan. Then, beginning at the dust collector, fit connectors, elbows, wyes, and pipes together as shown in Photo C to build the main trunk line.
3 Seal all joints with aluminum tape as you screw components together, as shown in Photo D. A second method of sealing pipe is to use an industrial-grade silicone sealant, as shown in Photo E. Both measures lead to an air-tight system.
Jeff used a pair of hose clamps and a short piece of flex hose to connect the collector to the dust bin.
He installed the cartridge filter with star knobs, bolts, and washers.
After joining male and female parts, Jeff secured them using three or four #8 × 1/2 sheet-metal screws around each joint.
Fortify and seal each joint with adhesive-backed aluminum tape, cutting strips long enough to circle the joint at least twice.
Cut pipe with a reciprocating saw and metal-cutting blade; a helper rotates the pipe during the process to maintain a controlled, on-the-mark cut.
Cut strips of metal strap, bow it around the pipe, bend up end taps, and screw the strap and pipe in place. Solicit a helper to hold the pipe in place.
Crimp the edges of the dust collection fittings (in this case, a reducer) for a snug fit in the mating component using a metal crimping tool. Secure the piece with screws.
Expert dust collection layout services
If you intend to install a dust collection system, note that Oneida offers a professional planning service to help you lay out and size your system, develop a parts list, and obtain installation help. This is free of charge with purchase of a 3 hp or higher system. Contact Oneida at (800) 732-4065 or oneida-air.com.
TIP ALERT
Improve saw dust collection system efficiency on tools by replacing the factory port with a larger shop-made one. (For instance, we changed out the 4" factory port on our jointer with a 5" port made from 1/2" plywood with a 5" opening and a 5" flanged metal port.)
4. Build branch lines that lead to each tool, terminating them with wyes and reducers, blast gates, and hose connectors. When needed, cut pipe lengths to fit as shown in Photo F, measuring and marking them with a pen. Allow for overlapping of pipes and connectors at joints (usually about 1" at each end).
5. Hang the assemblies from the ceiling joists or along the wall with metal straps snipped to size and screwed in place as shown in Photo G.
6. Connect needed lengths of sized flexible hose (less is best) from branch line ports to machine ports, using hose clamps. In some cases, you may need to crimp a pipe or fitting for an inserted fit as shown in Photo H. With the installation complete, close the blast gates, activate the system, and listen for air leaks at each joint. Plug any holes with silicone.
Installing a PVC System for Workshop Dust Collection
A Note of Caution: While we include a discussion of a PVC ductwork system in this article, we do not recommend it. And while you can find PVC ductwork systems in small shops across the country, know that NFPA / OSHA opposes using it in this application due to the potential for causing electro-static shock and fire. But if you choose this route, consider these installation pointers:
- When assembling the components of a PVC system, note that black plastic fittings, like the blast gates and reducers sold at Woodcraft, and the cream fittings all complement the system. Still, make sure you have the needed adapters so parts connect snugly. Seal joints with silicone and/or aluminum tape to prevent air leaks.
- Some metal components, purchased at a home center, may be needed to connect a PVC system to the dust collector.
- Do not glue up all of the joints. You may have to pull sections apart to deal with clogs.
- T and other tight-radius dust collection fittings and small diameter pipes will significantly reduce efficiency.
- Ground the PVC system by running braided metal wire inside the PVC piping, fittings, and flexible hoses from machines to dust collector to reduce static electricity buildup. Connect braided wires together at joints with wire nuts. Reduce the shock potential by spiral-wrapping the system with a grounded braided wire.
