Segmented turning sled
I turn a lot of segmented bowls. To make cutting the segments for the blanks easier, I devised this runner-guided bandsaw sled which can be configured to cut nearly any number (N) of segments (as long as [N] divides evenly into 360). For example, to make a sled for cutting eight segments, divide 360 by 8 (360÷8=45). This gives you the angle (A) between the two fences. Subtract (A) from 180 (180-45=135) and divide by 2 (135÷2=67.5) to calculate the angle (B) between the fences and the edge of the sled. Lay out the angles and screw the fences to the base. To cut the segments, start with a strip of segment stock against the trailing fence and make a cut to establish the first bevel. Hold the strip against the sled’s leading fence, with its tip against the saw’s fence positioned to serve as a stop, and make the second cut to create the first segment. Continue alternating between the two fences as you cut the remaining seven segments. Note that the width and length of the segment pieces will vary depending on your bowl design.
Jim Eckblad
Decorah, Iowa
Vise-saving jaws
If you don’t have a metalworking vise in your shop, securing metal parts such as screws and rods can be troublesome. They may slip in the jaws of your workbench vise, or the hard material may damage the vise’s wooden faces. To solve both problems, rest lengths of steel or aluminum angle iron along the top of the jaws and grip the object in question between them. There is usually no need to fasten them in place; the pressure of the vise takes care of it for you.
Larry Okrend
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Shop-made grinder guards
Over the years, my bench grinder has proved to be a valuable addition to my shop. It still runs like a champ, but the original, clear plastic guards yellowed and cracked some time ago. Rather than spend the time and effort to find OEM replacements, I made my own from a pair of inexpensive safety glasses meant for short-term visitors. The lenses, designed to fit over regular glasses, are large and offer excellent clarity. To make the guards, I removed the temples and cut through the bridge with a fine-toothed blade on my band saw. To fasten them to the grinder, I drilled holes near the nose pads and used the original bolts, washers, and wingnuts to attach them.
David DePauw
Cincinnati, Ohio
Finding the balance point
I make a lot of wall-mounted pieces designed to be hung via keyhole slots or sawtooth hangers. Many of these pieces aren’t symmetrical, however. So the hardware or slot must be located off-center to hang straight. Figuring out just how much off-center can be tricky. To help with this, I modified a quick-grip clamp by adding two opposing carpet tacks through holes drilled in the clamp’s removable pads. To find the proper hanging point, lightly grip the piece between the tacks, shifting as necessary until it hangs as desired. When I can’t risk scarring the front face, I add a masking tape pad for the outer tack to grip.
Jim Beauchamp
Kingspot, Tennessee
