Simple storage for F-style, pistol grip,and spring clamps.
Overall dimensions: 24"w × 7"d × 29 1⁄2"h
F-style bar clamps and pistol grip clamps are among the handiest assembly tools in any woodshop. But because of their deep jaws and protruding handles, they need organized storage to prevent becoming entangled like a jumble of coat hangers. This rack suits the job perfectly, accommodating everything from 6"-capacity clamps on up. The secret is in the angle of the rack and the size and spacing of its rails. The angle ensures that F-style clamp bars rest solidly against the rack instead of dangling loosely. The 4"-wide rail by itself provides enough bearing for 6" clamps, while longer clamps are hung from the narrow upper rail with their bars supported against the lower rail. The rack bottom serves as a perfect ledge for one-handed pistol grip-style clamps, and a 3⁄4"-thick strip screwed to the underside holds spring clamps.
Make the rack any width you like to suit your particular clamp collection. If you plan to mount it on a wall, it’s best if the rack is at least 20" wide so it can span two wall studs. The 1⁄2"-thick back eliminates the need for screw cleats, making mounting a snap.
Make the parts and cut the joints
1 From 3⁄4"-thick hardwood plywood, cut the sides (A), to the size listed in the Cut List, sawing the angle with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Alternatively, you can use the tablesaw with a straightedge board pinned to the stock to register against the rip fence. (See “Simple Tapering at the Tablesaw,” page XX.) Cut the bottom (B), and top (C) to length, but leave them about an inch wider for now.
2 From any 3⁄4"-thick solid wood, make the upper and lower rails (D, E) to size.
3 From 1⁄2"-thick hardwood plywood, cut the back (F) to size. (If you decide to alter the rack dimensions, note that the length of the back is equal to the length of the sides and that its width is the same as the length of the top and bottom.)
4 Saw or rout a rabbet on the ends of the sides (A) and the rear edges, where shown in Figure 1.
5 Position the upper and lower rails (D, E) where shown in Figure 1, and then trace along their edges to lay out their notches in the sides. Saw the notches using a dado head on the tablesaw, supporting the stock on edge against the miter gauge.
6 Dry-assemble the rack, and then mark the projecting front edges of the bottom and top (B, C). Disassemble the pieces, adjust the bevel angle on your tablesaw, and rip both front edges.
Assemble the rack
1 Dry-clamp the upper rail (D) into its notches, and then glue and nail the sides to the ends of the bottom (B) and top (C), using 6d finish nails.
2 Screw the upper rail in its notches, making sure that the rack sides are parallel along their length.
3 Glue and nail the back (F) into its rabbets, ensuring that the unit is square.
4 Screw the lower rail (E) into its notches.
5 Make the spring clamp block (G), and attach it with glue and 11⁄2"-long screws.
6 Make and attach the ledge strip (H) where shown, using glue.
7 Sand off any sharp edges, and let the glue cure fully before mounting the rack and loading it up with your clamp collection.
