This threadbox and tap, for cutting external and internal threads in wood, is useful for making clamps, jigs, fixtures, knockdown furniture, toys, and novelties. Although traditional in design,...
- Designed to allow easy chip clearance
- Steel tap is machined to close tolerances
- Cutting od external and internal threads in wood
- Useful in making clamps, jig, and fixtures
- Hardwood threadbox with turned handles has aluminum inserts to prevent wear
Instructions / MSDS
Threaded great with some prep
I used this product to build a wooden vise for a small portable bench I can move around by myself. I watched the video woodcraft has for the product and although it was informative it was misleading. This product is not ready to go out of the box and needs some prep as well as careful selection of the stock you would like to thread. First thing you need to do is take out the V cutter and sharpen it. It's a very easy task. You will need to resharpen and hone for almost every project but that is as simple as unscrewing two flat head screws and loosening an acorn nut at the top. Second is that if you buy dowels they can not be exactly 1". I bought the 1" cutter and it just crushes threads and has a whole lot of chip out. For the 1" cutter you need 15/16 dowels. Fortunately your local box lumber store should have slightly undersized dowels in poplar which were very easy to cut through. Third is that your stock needs to be straight grained! If it is at all wavy or you have knots I really hope you sharpened the hell out of it because you will most likely get a lot of crushed threads that chip like crazy. As perfectly straight as you can find is the way to go! Lastly the video online says to use a little BLO and that is very true except for the quantity. Use a good bit as most dowels are dry as a bone and a good thick coating will make it the tool much smoother. After all of this and some frustration I got some very clean looking threads that I was proud to use in my project. I never had problems with the chipping of the cutter but I would be concerned with anything other than the softer hardwoods.
I've used the 1" thread-box for a few years and am favorably impressed. A bit pricey, but worth every penny. I use it mostly for hand-clamping vises in my shop. The 1" grip is adequate for hand-tight torque to hold workpieces being cut by router, hand-saw, etc. For added torque,I've also modified the grip end of the "vise" screw with a larger diameter rod (~2 " diam.), counterbored and glued & pinned over the 1" (threaded) rod. That's all the torque I find necessary t hold a workpiece in place. Also, short lengths of the 1" threaded rod makes a very cooperative leveling foot for my out-feed table (table saw). Never had a problem w/the tap, but I've used only Poplar thus far. Although P is not as hard as maple, its still a hardwood, and for most threaded jigs, the screw is in compression under load and more than adequate for holding work pieces. In other words, the strength or hardness of maple is not necessary, unless you're also looking for more figured wood.
used to make jigs and adjusting supports for large food pantry
Cut clean threads with ease
The threading die cuts beautiful threads with ease. I first used it to cut threads to secure the top on a pepper mill. Adding threads to a project improves functionality and makes it look professional and well-designed.
A very handy tool to have around.
I make canes and walking sticks. Repair floor push brooms. Not hard to use if you read up on how to. Some hard wood dowels can break the cutting edge unless you read how to prepair the wood for cutting the threads. I own more than one/different size.
It could be better...
First I must say both the tap and die are well constructed. Unfortunately, the die needs one or two additional cutting teeth as even in hard wood it tends to rip and gouge, same to be said about the tap, which I find is to aggressive and useless.
Works real good
I use the product to make wooden nuts & bolts for a project that I was making.
Purchased this 3/4" kit yesterday, using walnut dowels I threaded 3 screws quite easily however on the third the threads looked crushed. Began to thread a cherry dowel today and it crushed the dowel - there were no threads. After removing the bottom plate and checking the cutter, which resembles a carving 'V' tool, the cutting edge was chipped. The edge had appearently been sharpened too thin whic makes it too brittle.