Bulls-Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer - Solvent Based - Gloss - Quart
Woodworkers use sanding sealers to speed the progress and improve the appearance of their finishing and refinishing projects. Zinsser® Bulls Eye SealCoat Sanding Sealer offers time-saving versatility in a pre-mixed 100% wax-free formula manufactured using revolutionary, patented...
Woodworkers use sanding sealers to speed the progress and improve the appearance of their finishing and refinishing projects. Zinsser® Bulls Eye SealCoat Sanding Sealer offers time-saving versatility in a pre-mixed 100% wax-free formula manufactured using revolutionary, patented shellac. The 2-pound cut formula penetrates the surface of wood and dries quickly, giving a rich, beautiful tone to wood grain. Since Zinsser SealCoat contains no waxes or stearates it's guaranteed to be compatible with oil-base polyurethane, acrylic polyurethane, lacquer, varnishes, even catalyzed finishes. It seals all types of wood including oak, maple, chestnut, mahogany, walnut, birch, poplar, cherry, exotic woods, etc. Recommended for interior woodwork, including paneling, molding, trim, windows, doors, cabinets, furniture, and toys.
- Compatible with ALL clear wood finishes
- Great for sealing ALL interior wood, including floors
- Does not darken or yellow with age
- Gives extra beauty & warmth to water-base polyurethanes
- Penetrates the surface of wood and dries quickly, giving a rich, beautiful tone to wood grain
- 100% wax-free formula
- Size: Quart
- Color: Clear
- Sheen: Gloss
- Type: 100% de-waxed shellac-based sanding sealer
- Interior/Exterior Use: Interior use only
- Recommended Use: Ideal for interior woodwork, trim, furniture, cabinets and hardwood floors; may also be used to seal wood turnings, figurines and other wood hobby or craft items
- Solids by Weight & Volume: Weight - 21.7%; Volume - 15.5%
- Application Method: brush, wipe or spray
- Coats: 2-3
- Coverage: 100-150 sq.ft.
- Application Temperature: between 50-90°F
- Ideal Drying Conditions: 70°F and 50% humidity
- Dry Time - Touch: 5-10 minutes
- Dry Time - Recoat: 20-45 minutes
- Dry Time - Sanding: 20-45 minutes
- Clean Up: denatured alcohol or ammonia and water
- VOC: 653 g/L
- (1) Zinsser - Bulls-Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer - Solvent Based - Gloss - Quart
Instructions / MSDS
Articles & Blogs
In this upcycle project, we had the opportunity to bring in a jewelry armoire from one of our Woodcraft marketing team members, Lori Haught. Lori decided rather than putting this in her Spring yard sale, why not refurbish it and give her bedroom decor an added useful piece to match other items therein. So, it was off to the Woodcraft product development department for a plan of action!
Accurate, Honest, Complete review
My Experience: Extensive with many types of wood and finishes over 40+ years. Project: Guitar body made of properly cured mahogany and mesquite. Atmosphere: 64 deg. F and 34% Humidity. Preparation: Used gloves to prevent oils from my skin getting on the wood. Sanded down to 1000 grit paper in one direction producing a reflective sheen on the wood surface with no finish. Wood was aged in the sun for two days to darken it and bring out the patina. Cleaned with compressed air at 135 PSI blown with the grain in both directions to remove almost all sanding dust out of the grain. Wood was completely dry and clean. Buffed and wiped with a micro fiber cloth to remove all possible particles. Final wiping was in one direction. Application was done in a clean, dry, dust free room. Application: I used a natural bristle brush (that's all I use now). Seal Coat is somewhat difficult to work with. You must keep it thin, but not too thin. If you go too thin it will not brush on evenly. If you go too thick it runs easily and since it dries very, very fast you will have a mess. You must keep it as thin as possible, but not too thin, and work fast. Drys Fast: Very true. Dries to touch in ten minutes at conditions above. Dries too fast in my opinion making. Literally starts drying in a few seconds. You have to brush fast if using a brush. Keep it as thin as possible, but too thin it will not brush on. Cure Results: Bunched up and created a fine blotchy look on both woods, yet absorbed well, especially into the mahogany. Tends to "run with the grain" and create very fine rubber type strands no matter how thin you brush it on. This happened with both woods and on vertical and horizontal surfaces. You can fix this. It requires you to work it down after it dries. See below. Color: The comments "...giving a rich, beautiful tone to wood grain...", "...warmth/glow...", "may darken some light woods" are grossly misleading and totally subjective to personal tastes and opinions. The fact is Seal Coat very significantly darkened both woods to the point of making it look like they were stained. The picture on the can is somewhat representative, but the results are still quite darker than what the picture shows. If you think darkening wood makes it "glow" and makes the finish "warmer", that's fine, but that is your opinion and not necessarily the opinion of others. For example, in my opinion, curly maple finished with a high gloss "glows" and dark mahogany does not "glow". "Darker" is "colder" to some people. Sands Easily: This is an absolute lie. Like some sealers and finishes it drys with a rubbery feel even after 24 hours in a dry climate. As it comes off it tends to bunch and goo up when sanded, and gums up sand paper. I tried 400, 600, 800 and 1000 grit. The solution was to use extra fine 0000 steel wool. This was the only way to "sand", or more appropriately, buff it down and clean it up. I put on two applications and it performed the same way both times. Summary: Overall I am not unhappy with my guitar, but I will not use this product again, though some people might like it and they are certainly entitled to their opinions. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. My intent here is to provide accurate information so that others don't end up with something they don't like due to easily misinterpreted information after a lot of hard work.
extremely versatile - as a prep or as a top coat
provides an excellent base to any top-coat or finish-coat. Easy to get a bubble free finish. Can be used over prior finishes (after light sanding) without having to strip to bare wood)
Saved My Bacon on a Cabinet Job
Built a new television/media cabinet of wood from a former cabinet. Layed on a dye, then topcoated that with urethane. Well, the urethane job didn't go so well, so I topcoated that with the SealCoat, then used a water-based lacquer over that. LOVE this stuff! I thin it down just a bit to about a 1-1/2 lb. consistency, and it does the job for me. I find it best to lay it on with a synthetic brush:)
Way cheaper than buttons/flakes
I built a crib with 48 slats from Alder all Mortise and tenon. 0 nails and 4 screws. WB dye then Sealcoat (lightly tinted)followed up by WB stain then WB topcoat finish. Came out like a museum peice. Perfect finish. I've used Sealcoat to seperate an oil stain from a WB topcoat and 5 years later no issues of seperation. Adds a warmth/glow to WB finishes which can have a bluish cast to them making them look plasticey (sp?) Cons: it does have a shelf life, so look at the date when you buy a can and mark the opening date on it. One year is about max. Also, if more than about 2 thick coats are applied it can craze/fracture later under the finish coat....not good, had to sand back to wood. My fault for trying to fill pores with it, instead of doing it the right way. All in all a great inexpensive product when used properly. Not really strong enough for a topcoat by itself.
No fuss , no muss; Perfect consistency!
The perfect sealer for porous woods to ensure even absorbtion of your stain and avoid blotching. No need to boil shellac flakes and measure ratios. Use straight or dilute 50% with denatured alcohol and you're ready to go. Apply it with a brush, sponge, foam brush, rag, or sprayer. It's absolutely fool proof!
Not all it promises.
This product boasts that it will both take tint well and can be used for spraying application. It's hard to tell it if didn't take the tint well or if it's just that it's much too thin to spray once tinted, but it was obvious that there we little tiny runs on the vertical surface. I used it untinted as a base coat and it seemed to spray on very well for that.
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