Laguna - 12" Parallelogram Jointer with ShearTec II
This item is out of stock with the manufacturer. Order now for a mid February shipment.
Item 412086Model 1791308
Item 838342Model 1610082
Item 830127Model 1610079
Item 843948Model 1610086K
Item 838341Model 1791317K
Item 838337Model 708466DXK
The German carbide inserts of the ShearTec II are made of thicker carbide, are set into the head on a flat surface rather than a less torque cone design, and are slightly angled to give a shearing style cut with low impact and less kick back.
- Motor: 1 Ph, 220V, 5 HP TEFC
- Max Cutting Capacity: 12” width, 1/2” depth
- Rabbetting Capacity: 1/2”
- ShearTec II Spiral Cutter Head, 4” diameter
- Cutter Head: 5500 RPM
- Table Dimensions: 87-3/4” L x 12” W x 33” H from floor
- Fence Size: 60” L x 5-3/8” H
- Fence Tilt: 90 and 45 degrees
- Positive Stops: 90 degrees, 45 degrees In and Out
- Built-in Wheel Kit
- Overall Dimensions: 88” L x 33” W x 44-1/2” H
- Weight: 875 lbs.
- Shipping Weight: 1067 lbs.
ShearTec II replacement knives are available, but sold separately (WC# 417656).
Shipping / Billing Information
This product ships direct from the manufacturer:
- Your order will ship in approximately 7-21 business days.
- This product is considered special order. Your account will be charged when you place your order.
- Express or overnight shipping is not available for this product.
- Ships by Ground to the 48 contiguous states. Cannot ship to Alaska, Hawaii, PO Boxes, APOs, US Territories, Canada or other foreign countries.
- Liftgate and Residential Delivery is covered with the excess weight fee, and the freight company will call the day before delivery to set up a time at no charge to you.
If purchased at a Woodcraft Store, please return the item directly to the store where your purchase was made.
New woodworking machines sold by Laguna Tools carry a two-year warranty effective from the date of shipping. Laguna bandsaw blades' welds are backed by their 1-yr manufacturer's warranty. Machines sold through dealers must be registered with Laguna Tools within 30 days of purchase to be covered by this warranty. Laguna Tools guarantees all new machine sold to be free of manufacturers’ defective workmanship, parts and materials. Laguna Tools will repair or replace, without charge, any parts determined by Laguna Tools, Inc. to be a manufacturer’s defect. They require that the defective item/part be returned to Laguna Tools with the complaint. In the event the item/part is determined to be damaged due to lack of maintenance, cleaning or misuse/abuse, the customer will be responsible for the cost to replace the item/part, plus all related shipping charges.
For warranty repair information, call 1-800-332-4094.
Instructions / MSDS
Articles & Blogs
If you haven’t heard of woodworker Jory Brigham, don’t worry – you will. The California free-spirited family man designs and handcrafts unique furniture using mostly domestic hardwoods and time-honored techniques in his Paso Robles studio, overlooking the vineyards in wine country. His look is rugged, earthy and retro – much like the furniture he creates.
Laguna 12 inch jointer review
I have owned and operated a small furniture shop for over 30 years now. Living in the south, I have abundant access to Red oak, Hickory and Walnut. I have a sawmill and dry kiln. I found that 10 or 11 inch boards are the most economical to cut and dry but they needed to be cut down before running them through my 8 inch jointer. I have a Powermatic 20 inch planner so I'm used to helical cutters. Although I've owned several jointers, this is is my first Shear-tecII product. Of course, there is no comparison at all to straight knife technology and in fact, I really don't understand why they are still producing them. The difference between the two cutter types is that tremendous! I consider myself quality, rather than "brand" loyal and running a small shop means a purchase of this size takes considerable research. I was able to test the Powermatic unit at a local shop. Of course, it ran great and the cutter performance was fantastic. Fit and finish were typical of that brand. I was unable to locate a local Laguna version. The parallelogram design, spiral cutter head, and 12 inch width were absolute requirements for this purchase. The Laguna and Powermatic 12 inch units are similarly matched both in features and price with Laguna being about 1K cheaper. My shop is mixed between these brands and I've found the fit and finish between them standing above other brands. I purchased the Laguna 18BX band saw about two years ago. It's a beast of a saw resawing wide oak and walnut boards every day. However, when it arrived, I noticed the table was not completely flat. I was terrified that this issue would take weeks or months to resolve through typical customer service channels. I searched the website for a contact number and noticed the on-line "chat" button pop up. For the heck of it , I summarized my issue and hit send. To my complete shock, I got a reply within seconds and was directed immediately to a technical advisor. Within minutes, Laguna overnight shipped a new table and threw in a free blade for my trouble. I have used that on line chat function to ask technical questions several times and I get the same performance each time. So, with similar features and In my opinion quality, the decision to go Laguna was simple with that level of customer service. If you use a machine every day for production purposes, you have to expect issues of some sort to address. Laguna has proven that partnership commitment to me. Set up of the machine was effortless. The beds are dead on flat and perfectly parallel. The fit and finish are typical Laguna quality. On its first day of operation, the jointer ran a little under 500 feet of 10 inch wide red oak. As stated earlier, this is my first experience with the Shear TecII cutters. Honestly, if I had used these before, I would be using the Laguna planner as well. Not to knock the Byrd cutter because it's a great cutter but the difference is significant. Six rows of cutters vs four rows makes a huge difference in cutter vibration alone. The vibration and resistance felt through the board is considerably reduced. Tear out with grain shifts or small knots was almost non existent. I expected a good cut but I was truly surprised how 10 inch red oak boards took so little effort to run. Depth of cut adjustments are always easier on a parallelogram machine and after a short time, you don't use the little scale. You learn how much wheel rotation translates to your desired adjustments and do it on the fly accounting for board widths or grain issues. I've run over a thousand feet of oak, hickory and walnut so far. The machine is a beast and it hasn't missed a beat. My only dig would be to the fence adjustment design. For such a tremendous machine, the fence adjustment wheel and related "rack and pinion" system is clumsy. Granted this machine is designed to "set and run" production, not making frequent changes to the fence. I can't recall ever tilting the fence on my jointers. I have other equipment that will make that cut more efficiently and safer. But, I do like like to move the fence around on narrow boards to "exercise" all the cutters. I wish the adjuster wheel was larger in diameter to make rotation easier. In all fairness, using two hands to move a fence of that size should be expected anyway. The handy little wheels in the cabinet were a treat to me as I didn't see that feature in my research. They are not caster but they do give you the ability to move the machine on smooth concrete from side to side. This is handy in a small shop if you need to shift it for some reason. Keep in mind it weighs right at 1,000lbs so it's not a machine you move around a lot. Not to mention tugging on those tables. I hate adjusting jointer tables. So far, mine are still dead parallel after thousands of feet of heavy wide boards. To summarize, I couldn't be happier with my jointer decision. In my opinion, the jointer is the most important machine in the shop. Flat boards are essential to every other process down the line. The easier flattening those boards becomes, the more enjoyable the entire process is. For me, the level of customer service and the Shear TecII cutter make this a no brainer choice.
Laguna 12” Parallelogram Jointer Review (05/19) Model: MJOIN12X86-5-1-0130 After 2 months of significant use, my assessment is this jointer is OUTSTANDING! I am incredibly pleased. It’s an awesome beast of a jointer and is a pleasure to use. I’ve spent nearly 3 years researching and testing out every 8” jointer I could lay my hands on. I’ve used 12” & 16” jointers (thanks to a woodworking club a few hours away) and even some European models. But never could I find this one to test out. I’ve visited the regional authorized repair center that works on various manufactures’ large woodworking machines to hear what those guys had to say about Laguna’s jointers and the competitors. (BTW, they had mostly very positive things to say about Laguna products.) Even still, and with only one review online, it was a sizeable leap for me to pull the trigger on buying this expensive tool unseen. Very happy I did! I hope this lengthy review helps you in your research. Cut quality is superb; no tear out at all. To date I’ve jointed white oak, basswood, poplar, cedar, hickory, walnut and padouk, a few hundred bd.ft. in all, with excellent results. No problem handling 1/16” cut into 9” cherry or 9” mahogany. Obviously new knives so time will tell how they perform over the long haul. But all empirical data suggests eternal jointing bliss. For those new to jointing, I’d like to mention that the jointed surfaces of wood will not be “finish” ready - surface prep will still be required, IMHO. When I first used helical cutters I was under the mistaken impression I’d be left with finish ready surfaces – that’s not been my experience. Purchased online through a woodworking retail chain, took about 8 weeks to arrive, via UPS freight. O.D. of crate measured 91”L/33”W/47”H and was listed at 1250 lbs. Crated well - 4 large lag bolts driven into 3x5 timbers mounted jointer to crate floor; crate walls were ⅜” ply over 1x1 & 1x2 framing; crate top was 3/16” ply. Driver used a pallet jack to maneuver the crate into the shop, getting it close to permanent location (about 8’ away). Some damage to the crate was evident. Driver obliged my request to wait until I could mostly uncrate the machine and do a cursory inspection before signing the bill of lading. Fortunately machine was unscathed. TWO SUGGESTIONS while you have access to the pallet jack: (1) peek into the crate to determine front of jointer and position crate in most advantageous orientation; and (2) place crate where you’ll have enough space to remove the crate floor from beneath the jointer when you get to that stage. I lifted the jointer and slid the crate floor out from underneath it. Also give consideration how you plan to move the jointer to its final location (I used a “knockdown” hoist) – and leave space enough to maneuver your chosen moving device. Jointer was well packaged in heavy plastic and cosmoline (that rust inhibiting oily coating covering cast iron surfaces). I cleaned the majority of the cosmoline off before moving the machine to it’s permanent place. Fit & finish of the machine is quite pleasing. Feel and operation are excellent – solid, smooth, no vibration. Tables and fence are polished very nicely; no pitting which is great given the large surfaces, and just one small area on the outfeed table with light overspray. No rust. Using a precision 50” straightedge and flashlight, the fence and both tables proved dead-flat in length and width, and each was without any twist. This was my primary concern and I was delighted. Out-of-the-box setup was pretty spot on – initial measurements showed the tables to be parallel and coplanar, needing about a 3/1000” adjustment. The fence stops were less than ½° off. There are 66 four-sided knives, aligned in six rows of 11 knives each, situated slightly skewed to provide true shear action when impacting the wood. Laguna provides 5 replacement knives and 10 extra screws. The knives are etched with a reference mark to help keep track of their rotations. Table adjustment is silky smooth & precise using the hand wheels (which I prefer over adjustment arms). The lock handle for the infeed table is inconveniently cramped between the hand wheel and another knob that I’ve yet to figure out it’s purpose. Fortunately I generally leave my infeed table set and do little adjusting of the depth of cut setting, so that will be an infrequent issue. The fence adjustment arm (used to set the fence from ±45° to 90°) is great – reachable, smooth motion and good leverage. However, I do not like the fence fore/aft adjustment wheel – its small diameter makes it less easy to turn plus there’s easily an inch (YES, 1 whole inch) play in the wheel handle when reversing turn direction. Not at all going to affect anything; just nutty to me. Initially, getting the fence’s ±45° & 90° Stops adjusted was very challenging until I determined the provided “adjust bolts” did not have flat ends. After correcting that issue, adjustment was easy. Using a precision angle gauge, I tested the repeatability of moving the fence back-n-forth between ±45° to 90° to test the stops, and they’ve stayed true after more than 2 dozen adjustments. The fence moves fore and aft across the outfeed table riding on something called “packing” (it looks like hard plastic so we’ll see how it wears over time). I like this – helps smooth the movement as the fence moves fore & aft. Plus, the fence ends up being a generous 5½”+ high as measured from the top of the infeed table. One negative is that if you aren’t careful when moving the fence all the way back, it can slip off the backside of the outfeed table and drops about ¼”, making it inconvenient to get back up and onto the table (awkward & heavy). It’s pretty darn quiet at 84dB – this is a wonderful improvement over my benchtop jointer’s 92.5dB. The 6” dust port provides excellent collection but you will need a very good DC unit (shop vac or small machine isn’t going to do). The ON/OFF controls are conveniently placed. Comes with an 8’+ power cord – you supply an appropriate plug. The owner’s manual states there is a “key-operated power switch.” Not so – no removable key. You’ll need 3mm & 8mm allen wrenches + 13mm crescent wrench; all other tools are provided. Owner’s Manual is unfortunately quite poor. Tool features and explanations are very basic and in some cases not accurate or are missing altogether. Fortunately minimal assembly is needed – just attach fence handles and guard. Moving the jointer, rented a “knockdown” hoist ($55 for a half-day rental). Had to buy a load leveler, chains and hooks separately. Never done this type of operation before so here are some considerations. (1) Laguna provides 2 lifting bars, each has a large washer on one end. I installed one bar “in” from the back and the other “in” from the front, resulting in there being one washer in the front and one washer in the back. This proved helpful because it essentially provided a stop to prevent the chain / strap / rope used to lift the jointer from slipping off the lifting bars if the jointer became unbalanced when raised. (2) The previous point works because I chose to run the load leveler crosswise over the jointer (front-left to back-right) to match where the washers were. After trying a few variations, I chose this approach since it kept the chains from rubbing the sides of the jointer and used half the chain length than had I’d gone with a 4-point connection approach. (3) Initially, only raise the jointer a fraction, then adjust the load leveler as needed. You’ll do this in increments until the jointer is fully airborne (but only about 1” high – no need to go a foot into the air) and level. I raised it only high enough to clear the pallet out from underneath it, then lowered it to the floor. When ready to move the jointer, I raised it again to just clear the floor (about ¼” high). This way if anything went wrong, it wouldn’t be terrible. (4) I just got lucky with this knockdown hoist; its stance was wide enough to straddle the crate. So keep the 33” width of the crate in mind when selecting yours. (5) It was unnecessary for me to cut off the left side of the crate floor since the hydraulic arm part of the knockdown hoist provided the offset needed; and, the stance of the knockdown was square-ish (opposed to splayed). But your scenario my require you to dismantle part of the crate floor. (6) Caution to those thinking they’ll simply disassemble the crate floor in sections and tip the jointer onto the floor to take advantage of the wheels to roll the jointer into place. The base is sheet metal and IMHO will easily bend & dent if tittered on edge of the 3x5 timbers. The wheels are fixed (do not caster) and oriented so the machine can move left & right (not forward & back). Front edge of jointer (with adjustment wheel handles stowed) is 39” from wall, and the lifting bar inserted from the back can still be removed once the jointer is in its permanent place.
I just wrote a review, but it looks like it didn't go through, so I'll post another (shorter) one. I have the prior version of this machine (mine is white, but otherwise nearly identical). This is a great machine. Massive, stable, and powerful. The ShearTec II system is great. A few high points: 1. I've had no chipout. Ever. Even in the most figured woods. The strategy of cutting on the shear angle works. 2. Hardly any noise. Three-blade jointers scream when face jointing. This is very quite. 3. The blades last forever. When you get a nick in straight-blade jointers, you have to sharpen/replace the whole blade, and setting them all to the same length is a hassle. With a ShearTec (and I'm sure with any spiral cutterhead) I just turn the affected blades 90 degrees, and the built in stops make that super simple. When I get another nick, in all likelihood it will be in another spot on the cutterhead, so I'm turning a different set of blades. And since you can turn each blade 4 times, a blade set lasts a lifetime. 4. Related to 3, the shearing action and the carbide blades mean everything stays sharp forever. I had to rotate a line of blades due to a nick once, but I've never had to replace them for dullness. I'm very happy with the machine. I've had mine about five years. If mine was destroyed I would buy another. Highly recommended if you have the space and the funds.