"Integral" clamp pads
After struggling with trying to keep loose pads in place when using pipe clamps, I hit upon the idea of attaching the pads to the clamps. To accomplish this, I simply drill a hole for the pipe through a scrap of plywood. I typically use 1/2" or 3/4" ply, cutting the pieces an inch or two wider than the clamp’s jaws to better distribute the clamping pressure. I position the holes so the bottom edge of the pad is just barely above the bench surface when the clamp is standing on its feet. And I can customize the height of the pad depending on what I’m clamping.
Perry Werner
Fergus Falls, Minnesota
Shop-made spray stand
Lafayette, Colorado
X-ray vision for turners
One of the challenges of turning hollow pieces is that you can’t see where the tip of the tool is as it is concealed inside the workpiece. To help me keep track of this, I mark my hollowing tools in two places with a Sharpie. First, I put a line at the top dead center (TDC) of the ferrule that helps me keep the tip from rotating out of the proper cutting position. Second, I put depth marks on the tool’s shank that let me know how deep I am in the piece. These are simply lines of alternating colors spaced every half inch. Before I start to hollow, I hold the shank beside the piece to give me an idea of how deep I want to cut. Then I monitor the depth by looking at the lines as I work.
Jim Kelly
Trappe, Pennsylvania