Non-tip sled
I only have enough room in my shop for a job-site table saw. It gets the job done, but its small table presents some challenges, especially with regard to my crosscut sled. When I first made it, I had trouble with the sled tipping both as I was starting a cut on the near side of the blade and again on the far side of the blade as I completed the operation. In looking at my saw, I realized that the miter gauge slots were “T-slots” with an undercut at the bottom. Therein was the solution to my problem. I bought a short length of aluminum miter bar stock that had little wings that fit into the T-slots on my saw. From this, I cut four 1-1/2” pieces and screwed them to the underside of my sled aligned with the ends of its carefully-fit hardwood runners. Now, once the sled is in place on the saw, it holds itself up on either side of the cut, making it much easier to control. As a side benefit, I added two 2” lengths of aluminum T-track to the side of my saw stand for hanging the sled when not in use.
David Riley
La Valle, Wisconsin
Shop-made plywood tote
Let’s face it, moving full sheets of plywood isn’t fun, even if you have help. And if you have to do it alone, it can be a downright nightmare. The sheets are awkward to handle and can be quite heavy, a combination that makes a strained back and/or bruised edges likely. To make this onerous task easier, I made a plywood tote from an 18’ length of 3/8” rope and a 6” piece of 1” diameter PVC pipe. To make the tote, tie the ends of the rope together with a fisherman’s knot, then pass the doubled rope through the pipe which serves as a handle. Loop the ends of the rope around the lower corners of the sheet. Reach over the top of the sheet to grab the handle and lift.
Richard Entwistle
Highland Lakes, New Jersey
Adding traction to cauls
When gluing irregularly shaped, or angled pieces, I frequently make specially-shaped cauls to direct clamping pressure where I want it. Occasionally, I’ll tape or glue these cauls to the pieces to keep them from slipping out of place. But often, all that is needed is to add medium grit sand paper to the face of the caul in contact with the work piece. Adhere the sandpaper with spray adhesive, or double-sided tape.
Sarah Marriage
Baltimore, Maryland
Fast and flawless chamfers
I make a lot of charcuterie boards with chamfered edges. I have found the fastest and cleanest way to cut this decorative detail is on the table saw. To get set up, position your fence on the side of the saw to which your blade tilts—to the left of the blade on a left tilt saw as shown above. Clamp a 3 × 18” length of sheet stock to the fence to serve as a spoil board. Tilt the blade to 45° and, with the saw on, raise it until it just barely cuts into the spoil board’s surface. Adjust the fence position and the blade height to change the chamfer’s width. Lower the blade before moving the fence closer for a narrower chamfer and vice versa for a wider one. To make a cut, simply run the workpiece along the fence. For safety when cutting across the ends of narrower boards, push them with a follower board.
Ethan Weiland
St. Augustine, Florida
