How to get the most performance from 1-HP to 2-HP dust collectors
Don’t throw away the broom just yet.
Even the best dust-collection system won’t eliminate the need for occasional sweeping. A good system, however, will keep the broom and your lungs from wearing out prematurely.
There are two main points to consider when choosing a dust collector. First, figure out the air-volume requirements of the machines in your shop (see the chart on p. 84). Next, decide on what kind of hookups you are going to use: flexible hose, PVC pipe or metal duct.
To see what size and type of collector would best suit a one-man shop, I gathered a sampling of machines, from 1-hp single stage units to 2-hp two-stage collectors, including one cyclone: Delta (11/2 hp single stage), Dust Boy (2 hp two stage), Jet (2 hp single stage), Oneida (11/2 hp cyclone) and SECO UFO-90 (1 hp single stage). I used the collectors with my tools, which include a 10-in. cabinet saw, a 15-in. planer, an 8-in. jointer and a 16-in. bandsaw.
The horsepower rating is a fairly reliable guide to the performance of a dust collector (see the chart on p. 85). Hookups, however, are everything. Too much flexible hose will rob even a big collector of power. PVC pipes, in short runs, work fine with a sufficiently powered collector, 11/2 hp or more. Metal duct, not unexpectedly, performs best. Even an 8-year-old, 1-hp collector can collect chips from machines 25 ft. away when hooked up to a properly designed system. Using a 1-hp collector this way may seem misguided, like putting a racing exhaust system on a subcompact car, but the experiment illustrates how you don’t have to spend a fortune to get decent results. Every shop is different, of course, and your results may vary, so use my findings as guidelines, not absolutes.
A 1-hp single-stage collector can handle any machine in my shop. The biggest sawdust producer in my shop is a 15-in. planer. And even a 1-hp single-stage dust collector can handle that machine, hooked up with about 6 ft. of 4-in.-dia. flexible hose. I borrowed a new UFO-90, the same as my old collector, to see if anything had been changed. It’s still the same machine, rated at 650 cu. ft. per minute (cfm) by the manufacturer, but when hooked up to 6 ft. of flexible hose, it moves about 420 cfm. That’s slightly less than the 500 cfm recommended for a 15-in. planer, but 90% of the time the 1-hp collector can handle it because I rarely plane 15-in.-wide stock.
Woodworking Dust Collection Tips and Guide
How to get the most performance from 1-HP to 2-HP dust collectors
Don’t throw away the broom just yet. Even the best dust collection systems for small shops won’t eliminate the need for occasional sweeping. A good system, however, will keep the broom and your lungs from wearing out prematurely.
There are two main points to consider when choosing a dust collection setup. First, figure out the air-volume requirements of the machines in your shop (see the chart below). Next, decide on what kind of hookups you are going to use: flexible hose, PVC pipe, or metal duct.
To see what size and type of collector would best suit a one-man shop, I gathered a sampling of machines, from 1-HP single stage units to 2-HP two-stage collectors, including one cyclone: Delta (1 HP single stage), Dust Boy (2 HP two stage), Jet (2 HP single stage), Oneida (1 HP cyclone) and SECO UFO-90 (1 HP single stage). I used the collectors with my tools, which include a 10-inch cabinet saw, a 15-inch planer, an 8-inch jointer, and a 16-inch bandsaw.
How To Set Up Dust Collection in a Wood Shop
The horsepower rating is a fairly reliable guide to the performance of a wood shop dust collector (see the chart below). Hookups, however, are everything. Too much flexible hose will rob even a big collector of power. PVC pipes, in short runs, work fine with a sufficiently powered collector, 1 HP or more. Metal duct, not unexpectedly, performs best. Even an 8-year-old, 1-HP collector can collect wood shop dust and chips from machines 25 feet away when hooked up to a properly designed system. Using a 1-HP collector this way may seem misguided, like putting a racing exhaust system on a subcompact car, but the experiment illustrates how you don't have to spend a fortune to get decent results. Every shop is different, of course, and your results may vary, so use my findings as guidelines, not absolutes.
A 1-HP single-stage collector can handle any machine in my shop
The biggest sawdust producer in my shop is a 15-in. planer. And even a 1-HP single-stage dust collection system can handle that machine, hooked up with about 6 feet of 4-inch-diameter flexible hose. I borrowed a new UFO-90, the same as my old collector, to see if anything had been changed. It's still the same machine, rated at 650 cubic feet per minute (CFM) by the manufacturer, but when hooked up to 6 feet of flexible hose, it moves about 420 CFM. That's slightly less than the 500 CFM recommended for a 15-inch planer, but 90% of the time the 1-HP collector can handle it because I rarely plane 15-in.-wide stock.
One-HP single-stage collectors cost about $200. Some woodworkers buy two units and station them strategically in their shop. At 82 decibels (measured at 8 feet), a 1-HP dust collection unit isn't much noisier than a vacuum cleaner, and each one takes up about 3 square feet of shop space.
I also used the 1-HP collector with a PVC duct system (4-inch diameter pipe and fittings) and measured the moving air volume at the table saw-jointer connection, which is at the end of about 25 feet of pipe and hose. At that distance, because of increased resistance, the air volume drops to under 300 CFM, less than recommended for woodworking tools. In reality, however, one can live with that. But if I'm face-jointing wide boards, the collector can't always handle the volume, and chips jam the jointer's dust port. Maybe 80% of the time it works okay.
When I hooked up the 1-HP collector to a newly installed metal duct system, with my tools in the same configuration as before, I was really surprised. The air volume was back up to 360 CFM, very acceptable. Then I hooked up my old 1-HP collector, which is outfitted with oversized felt bags (available from Oneida Air Systems) that improve airflow and capture fine dust (see the story below), and I measured almost 400 CFM. That's a significant gain.
A 1-1/2 HP collector can be hooked up to longer runs of hose or duct
As you might imagine, hooked up to one machine at a time, a 1-1/2 HP collector does not have any trouble removing chips, even with a long (12-feet) run of hose. Delta rates its HP collector at 1,200 CFM, a number that is derived in a lab, not under real shop conditions.
Hooked up to a 6-foot run of 4-inch diameter flexible hose, I measured about 500 CFM with the Delta and 470 CFM using an Oneida Air Systems HP cyclone collector. Cyclones and two-stage collectors have slightly more internal air resistance; hence the lower CFM reading. That's about what you can expect from any HP collector hooked up to 4-inch diameter hose.
I also hooked up the 1-1/2 HP collectors to two machines running simultaneously. Performance ranged from good to so-so, depending on how much sawdust was being spit out by my tools. The best way to direct maximum airflow to the tool being used is to attach a blast gate to each hose.
Hooked up to a PVC duct system (a run of about 25 feet of pipe), both the Delta and Oneida collectors captured most of the sawdust when running one tool.
A 1-1/2 HP Delta collector costs about $350. A two-stage unit, such as the Oneida, costs almost twice as much. Penn State Industries also sells a cyclone collector. (For more on the advantages of two-stage collectors vs. single-stage units.
Both 1-1/2 HP collectors performed exceptionally well when connected to metal duct and used with one tool at a time. With two blast gates open, the air volume dropped and was insufficient to operate two big machines at once.
The larger-volume bags or canisters of HP collectors hold a lot of material, about 30 gallons worth, which means fewer trips to the compost pile, a big advantage over the 1-HP machines that hold about half of that. A 1-1/2 HP single-stage collector takes up about 7 square feet of shop space. But a vertically stacked two-stage cyclone such as the Oneida takes up only 3-1/2 square feet of shop space, a big plus in a small shop.
More horsepower does mean more noise; both registered 85 decibels at 8 feet. The Delta comes wired for 115 volts but can be switched over to 230 volts. The Oneida comes without cable or switch. It can be wired to run on either current.
THREE STYLES OF DUST COLLECTORS
The most economical and biggest-selling dust collectors are the two-bag, single-stage models. Single stage means work shop dust is sucked through the impeller (fan) and dumped into the lower bag. The upper bag collects fine sawdust and lets the exhaust air back into the shop.DANGERS OF SINGLE-STAGE COLLECTORS
A 2-HP unit can sometimes handle two machines at once
Hooked up to two 6-foot runs of 4-inch diameter hoses, a 2-HP single-stage collector draws over 350 CFM from each port, plenty for many woodworking machines. The 2-HP two-stage Dust Boy didn't match the power of the 2-HP single-stage Jet machine, although it has other qualities that may be preferable. When I connected the 2-HP units to the PVC duct system, they too were robbed of considerable power, but one machine could be operated at a time with satisfactory results.
When connected to a metal duct system, the Jet collector really moved a lot of air, 570 CFM at the table saw-jointer connection (after about 25 feet of duct). With two blast gates open, the air volume was reduced to less than 300 CFM, still acceptable for some operations. The Dust Boy produced slightly lower readings but still had more than enough power to run one tool at a time in any configuration. If you regularly operate more than one machine simultaneously, it would be wise to look at 3-HP or bigger dust collection systems.
The 2-HP machines are no noisier than the 1-1/2 HP collectors. They cost more, however. The Jet is priced at $400; the Dust Boy sells for about $650. Most 2-HP collectors come wired for 230 volts. The Dust Boy can be run at either 115 volts or 230 volts.
Choosing among the options
On the matter of choosing a dust collector, a two-stage cyclone gets my top vote. A small cyclone collector takes up less room, is easy to empty, and runs very clean. For example, on all of the single-stage units, even after running them for only an hour, fine dust appeared on the machine and in the area around it. That's because it's difficult to get a perfect seal between the bag and housing. The Oneida cyclone, outfitted with an internal filter, rubber gaskets, and wide metal ring clamps, seals better.
Two-stage units, such as the Dust Boy (Delta also makes a two-stage collector), are also nice and compact. The Dust Boy takes up 6 sq. feet and less vertical space than most collectors. The Dust Boy (as does the Oneida) comes with a Leeson motor and cast-aluminum housing and impeller (fan), and the sturdy plastic barrel holds a lot of debris, 55 gallons worth. Before it can be emptied, however, the heavy motor and housing must be lifted off.
Removing the lower bag of a single-stage collector is an easy matter of loosening a band clamp. The real fun begins when you try to reattach it. If you've ever had to put your pants on with an arm in a cast, you'll get the idea. The lower bag must be wrapped around the metal waist of the machine and held in place before the clamp can be cinched. Some manufacturers, such as Jet, add an elastic band inside the lower bag to facilitate reattachment somewhat.
Woodworker's Supply tried to solve the lower-bag problem with a clamp-on skirt accessory. The skirt and standard 30-gallon trash can replace the lower bag. Because the skirt remains attached to the collector's housing, it's easy to cinch the lower belt that attaches the skirt to the trash can. I just wish the skirt were made of felt rather than the more porous woven fabric. This setup will reduce the air volume (the collector "breathes" through both bags) when using the stock upper bag. With a larger upper bag, I found that the CFM readings were not compromised. But if you happen to vacuum up any offcuts, they will make quite a racket rattling around in a metal trash can.
Although many woodworkers, myself included, have used PVC drainpipe for duct without mishap, experts warn against using the material. The connectors (elbows and wyes) restrict airflow, and the material builds up a static charge, which may cause a spark and set off an explosion. (Running grounded copper wire inside the pipe reduces the hazard.) Use PVC at your own risk. Metal duct and fittings are obviously better and will also last longer. I've broken half a dozen plastic blast gates in as many years. If you're on a tight budget, go with flexible hose or build a metal duct system in stages, starting with only a couple of hookups. Your collector will work more efficiently, and so will you.