Use the match-maker chart for all of your glue-up needs
Unless your projects are limited to knockdown furniture and timber-frame barns, you are already know the importance of using the right woodworking glue. Over the years, you’ve probably grown used to working with a few favorites, and even learned some tricks to deal with less-desirable qualities. But even the most seasoned woodworker eventually hits a project where the go-to glue just won’t cut it. That’s when it helps to understand different woodworking glue types and how each performs. The goal is simple—find the best glue for woodworking projects that ensures every joint, seam, and panel stays strong.
There are dozens of types of wood glue, but selecting a suitable adhesive needn’t be dizzying. I’ve divided the woodworking glues into a few basic categories and provided a side-by-side comparison to help you decide how to choose the right wood glue for your next project.

Woodworking Glue Chart


Glossary:
Pot life: The maximum amount of time you have to apply two-component glues to your work after they have been mixed.
Open time: The maximum amount of time glued pieces can be left open to the air before assembly.
Clamp time: The minimum amount of time required before you can remove the clamps from a glue-up assembly. (Note: PVAs and hide glue offer only 30-50% of full strength at stated time. If a joint is under stress, maintain clamping pressure for the full cure time.)
Cure time: The time it takes for a glue joint to achieve full 100% bonding strength.
Shelf life: The period of time that glue remains usable. (Note: Excessive heat, humidity, or repeated freeze/thaw cycles will cause glues to spoil prematurely. Under ideal conditions, adhesives remain usable for longer time periods. If a glue appears abnormal, test first, or toss it in the trash.)
Glue-Choosing Considerations
All woodworking glues are capable of forming bonds stronger than the wood itself when used under ideal conditions. Selecting the best glue for woodworking projects depends on factors such as temperature, working time, and exposure to moisture. Here’s a quick-pick guide to help you select the right glue for new work or old, indoors or outside, and the variety of materials woodworkers use.
In some cases, several glues can fit the bill. Review the chart to see if the woodworking glue types you already have meet your needs, or if it’s time to pick up something better suited for the job.

Flexibility/Creep
A little plasticity is necessary to allow for some wood movement, but slipping or stretching (often the result of constant long-term loads) that doesn’t snap back is called creep. In smaller projects, creep means visible glue lines and laminations that lose their shape. In larger structures, creep can spell joint failure.
Avoid: White glue. It creeps the most, but most PVAs can stretch under long-term loads.
Try: Urea formaldehyde and epoxy are the safest choices, but polyurethane is more convenient and suitable for non-structural woodworking projects. In the PVA category, Titebond Extend offers the best creep resistance. CA glue bonds are stiff to the point of brittle; the bond can be broken with a hard rap.

Toxicity
Gloves, respirators, goggles, and good ventilation provide decent defense, but if you are concerned about the effects of long-term exposure or if you are chemically sensitive, steer clear of adhesives containing problematic chemicals, including those requiring solvent-based cleaners. (If in doubt, get a Material Safety Data Sheet [MSDS] from the manufacturer.)
Avoid: Urea formaldehyde. It contains formaldehyde, a skin and lung irritant, and a possible carcinogen. Polyurethane and epoxies contain sensitizers that can trigger allergic reactions. CA fumes irritate the eyes, nose, and lungs.
Try: PVAs. These are nontoxic and clean up with water. Hide glue is made from skins and hooves. You wouldn’t want to eat the stuff, but you needn’t worry if your dog happened to find your glue pot.

Working Time
Open time, working time, and curing time all relate to how long it will take to glue up a project from application to maximum bonding. Fast glues speed things along, but slower woodworking glue types offer flexibility during complex assemblies.
Fast: Hot hide glue tacks in minutes, but with the aid of an accelerator, CAs bond instantly. If you can afford a few minutes, fast-curing epoxies cure in minutes but offer considerable strength.
Slow: Titebond III and liquid hide glue offer more time for complex or multi-stage glue-ups. For even more time, try Titebond Extend. Polyurethane allows a comfortable working time for complicated glue-ups, but keep the clamps on until final cure or the foam can cause joints to open. You can double epoxy’s working time with slower hardener. (Lowering the temperature will also buy more time.)

Temperature Sensitivity
Cold shops can ruin a good glue-up. Choosing the best glue for woodworking projects often depends on how low the temperature drops, or if the stock was cold to start. Under adverse temps, some glues simply can’t cure (or stick) like they should.
Avoid: PVAs. Most of these require a temperature above 50° F to work. When yellow glue dries white, it means that the temperature fell below the glue’s chalk temperature and that the joint will likely fail.
Try: Epoxies. These cure best at 70° F, but some mixes work in temperatures as low as 35° F. (In chilly conditions, you can use a heat lamp or hair dryer to help the epoxy kick in.) Titebond III can be used as low as 45° F. Liquid hide glue begins to gel at 50° F, but if you keep the bottle warm, it can be used in colder weather.

Water-Resistance
There’s a difference between waterproof (Type I), water-resistant (Type II), and constant immersion. Type I testing involves several boiling/backing cycles and then testing the samples while they’re still wet. Type II testing involves three soaking cycles and three drying cycles before the samples are tested. Despite type ratings, all PVAs will soften in a constant marine environment.
Avoid: White and hide glues. Their bonds can be undone with hot water. (This can be an advantage when expecting repairs. Conservators prefer hide glue because new glue reactivates old.)
Try: Epoxy is the only adhesive suited for constant water contact, but for typical outdoor projects, Titebond II, polyurethane, and urea formaldehyde will all hold their own. For projects that might be exposed to hot water, consider Titebond III. (Boiling water activates Titebond III crosslinking polymers, improving Titebond III's bond. At temperatures above 200°F epoxy and urea formaldehyde lose stability.)

Gap Filling
If a joint is slightly less than perfect, you may not need to worry. As long as 50% of the joint faces are in contact, most glues will hold tight. (In such cases, consider leaving the clamps on through full curing to keep mating surfaces as snug as possible.) Bad craftsmanship and poor clamping practices are another story. If you have a bridle joint with visible gaps or a tenon that slides around within its mortise, you need a gap-filling specialist.
Avoid: Polyurethane glue. It foams as it cures, but the dry froth has no significant strength. PVA might also seem like a quick fix, but that gap-filling puddle will shrink as it dries. In both cases, the adhesives create a film that seals the cell walls, complicating a future fix. (PVAs work if you can pack the joint to establish direct wood-to-wood contact.)
Try: Epoxy is the best choice for structural, gap-filling repairs. You can build epoxy fillets around joints for additional reinforcement.

Custom PVA Blends
Woodworking glue types like special-blend PVAs possess certain abilities that have made them shop favorites. With a 15-minute open time (twice as long as regular Titebond), Titebond Extend is useful in complex glue-ups. For cabinetry, try Titebond Melamine. As the name suggests, this PVA sticks to melamine, and also vinyl, high-pressure laminates (and wood). Titebond No-Run, No-Drip stays put and grabs quickly, making it perfect when installing molding and trim. Glue-lines shouldn’t show, but when they might, Titebond II Dark can prevent the lines from standing out on darker woods.
By understanding how to choose the right wood glue, you’ll save time, avoid failed joints, and ensure every project—from heirloom furniture to quick shop jigs—holds fast for years.