Project designed and built by Ben Svec
Build this handsome entertainment center to get the most from your media components.
To help immerse you into the home theater experience, we completely re-thought the concept of the entertainment center, considering today’s components and wiring needs. It’s a timely move because flat panel TVs don’t fit into yesterday’s massive and clunky entertainment centers. Plus those dinosaur designs seldom made room for surround-sound speakers.
The result you see here is a cherry cabinet that has A-list looks while offering a star performance. Two doors conceal adjustable shelves that house your tuner and media players, and twin drawers hold a treasure trove of favorite movies and video games. The center channel speaker enjoys reserved seating just below the monitor, and the top holds your monitor and front speakers at a comfortable height for both sight and sound. We even created internal wire-access holes to simplify the cable-running process. Large cutouts in the back further simplify the hook-ups, and help your valuable equipment stay cool—no matter how much the action heats up onscreen.
Start with the top and bottom frames
1. Build the carcase by first making the assemblies shown in the Upper and Lower Frame drawing, Fig. 1. To do this, rip and crosscut the bottom panel (A) to the dimensions listed in the Cut List. Set this part aside for now.
2. Rip the frame fronts (B) and the frame sides (C) to finished width. Cut these blanks 1" longer than listed.
3. Rip and crosscut the frame backs (D) to size. This piece is identical in length to the frame bottom (A).
4. Assemble the lower frame by gluing and clamping a frame back (D) to the bottom panel (A) as shown in Photo A. We used biscuits to help align the edges of these pieces. If you skip the biscuits, be sure to clamp the edges flush until the glue sets. Pocket-hole screws are another joinery choice.
5. Miter the frame fronts (B) to finished length. Glue and clamp a frame front to the bottom panel (A) as shown in Photo B, again making sure the assembly lies flat and the edges are flush.
6. Miter the front ends of the frame sides (C). Dry-fit the pieces to the bottom assembly, mark the length flush with edge of the frame back, and cut to finished length. Referring to Photo C, drill the frame sides (C) for pocket-hole screws. Glue the edges of the two frame sides (C) to the bottom panel and drive the pocket-hole screws at the front and back corners.
7. make the top frame assembly using pocket-hole crews to join parts B, C, and D. Make sure the assembly is flat and square.
8. Referring to Fig. 1, mark the location of all holes and slots. (The slots permit seasonal wood movement of the solid-wood top you’ll make later.) Make the slots by drilling a pair of 3/16" holes, and slice between their rims with two coping saw cuts. Note that you countersink the 5/32" holes on the top face of the upper assembly and on the bottom face of the lower assembly.
9. Referring to the Profile Detail accompanying the Carcase Exploded View, Fig. 2, use a 1/4" beading bit to rout a profile along the lower frame fronts (B) and frame sides (C) where shown in Fig. 2. (Convert a 1/4" roundover bit to a beading bit by substituting a 3/8" O.D. bearing. See the Buying Guide.) Sand the upper and lower frame assemblies.
Continue with the carcase
1. Cut blanks for the drawer shelf panels (E), divider panels (F), and end panels (G). Initially cut these parts 1" wider and longer than shown in the Cut List; you’ll slice them to final size after applying the edge banding. By making the final cuts after attaching the banding you eliminate tedious fitting of individual pieces.
2. Rip solid cherry stock for the drawer shelf bands (H), divider bands (I), and end bands (J). Thickness plane to match the thickness of your plywood carcase stock. Cut these blanks 1" longer than the final size indicated in the Parts List. See “Getting the Edge on Plywood” on page 34 for edge-banding options.
3. After the glue dries, cut the panel assemblies (E/H, F/I, and G/J) to final size. Cut the 3/4 x 3/4" notches in the divider panels where shown in Fig. 2 and Fig. 4.
4. Chuck a rabbeting bit into your table-mounted router, and rabbet the inner face of the back edge of the end assemblies (G/J) where shown on Fig. 2 and Fig. 3.
5. Place the end assemblies (G/J) on your workbench with the inside face upward (so you can see the rabbet you just cut). Arrange the two assemblies so that their front edges touch each other. This will help ensure that you lay out the panels as mirror images of each other, not as identical parts. Referring to the End Panel drawing, Fig. 3, lay out the position of the shelf-pin holes.
6. Using a similar procedure, refer to Fig. 4 to lay out the holes (including the 2" wire access hole) in the divider panels (F/I). Drill all the holes where marked.
7. Chuck a 45° chamfering bit into your router, and ease the perimeter of the wire access hole on both sides of each divider panel assembly (F/I).
8. Sand all of the panel assemblies to final smoothness.
Assemble the carcase
1. Clamp the drawer shelf assemblies (E/H) between the divider assemblies (F/I) where shown in Fig. 2. Make certain that all of the front edges and ends are flush, and clamp the assembly as shown in Photo D. Using the holes in the divider assemblies as guides, drill 3/32" pilot holes into the edges of the drawer shelf assemblies, and drive the screws. This creates the center assembly.
2. Lay the center assembly on its back on a large flat table, and place 1/4" plywood spacers under it where shown in Photo E to create space for the back. Center the upper and lower frame assemblies side to side, and clamp them to the center assembly. Using the holes in the frame assemblies as guides, drill pilot holes and drive screws into the center assembly.
3. Use an 18" spacer cut from scrapwood to set the distance between the center assembly and the end assemblies (G/J). The back edge of the end assembly rests on your assembly table. Carefully square and clamp the assemblies, and drive screws as shown in Photo F.
Adding the end assemblies is one of the last steps in carcase assembly. Check for square after clamping, then drive the screws.
4. Cut the cleats (K) to the size in the Cut List, and screw them to the upper and lower frame as shown in the Cabinet Exploded View, Fig. 7. The back face of the cleat is flush with the inside edge of the rabbet in the end panel assembly (G/J) and resting in the notches of the divider panel assemblies (F/I).
5. Cut the back (L) to size from 1/4" plywood. After test-fitting it, lay out the rectangular openings shown on the Back drawing, Fig. 5. Drill an access hole for your jigsaw’s blade, and cut the openings.
Construct a solid base
1. Begin making the feet (M) by ripping a 48" length of 3/4" solid cherry to 4" wide. Referring to the Foot drawing, Fig. 6, use a dado head in your table saw to cut rabbets along the front and back top edges of the blank.
2. The feet look best when there’s a close grain match at each corner. To do this, begin by crosscutting your board into four blanks, each approximately 12" long. Set your miter saw for a 45° cut (it can be left or right), and position the first blank vertically so that the 1/4" rabbet is against the fence. Approximately center the blank side to side, and make the first cut. Swing the saw to make the complementary miter, and cut it, removing a minimum amount of wood from the blank. On the surface of the 1/4" rabbet, use a pencil to make matching marks on each pair of feet so that they won’t get mixed up.
3. Cut all of the feet to length. A stopblock setup at your miter saw will ensure identical results. To minimize tearout at the front of the foot, make these cuts with the outside surface of the foot upward.
4. Mark the angled cut on a pair of feet, and clamp a stopblock to your miter saw to make identical cuts without further measuring or marking. With the top edge of the foot against the fence, you can use the 221/2° detent built into most miter saws for this setup. (Note: If you want to make these cuts with the outside surface upward, you’ll need separate setups for the right and left foot halves.)
5. Glue and clamp the pairs of feet halves, making sure that each assembly is flat. Unclamp after the glue dries, and finish-sand.
6. Rip and crosscut the long stretchers (N) and short stretchers (O) to size. Referring to the assembly view in Fig. 7, drill the counterbores and screw shank holes where shown. Finish-sand these parts.
7. Place the carcase upside down on your assembly table. Clamp the feet to the lower frame assembly, flush at the corners where shown in Photo G. (You’ll notice that the rabbet you cut on the top front of the legs creates a shadow line reveal.) Glue and screw the stretchers to the backs of the feet as shown. Using the holes in the stretchers as guides, drill pilot holes into the bottom, and drive the screws.
Next, the top and shelves
1. Edge-glue solid cherry lumber to make an oversized blank for the top (P). After the glue dries, sand it smooth and cut to size. Rout a 1/4" bead along the top ends and edges, and finish-sand.
2. Following the procedure you used earlier, join blanks for the movable shelves (Q) and shelf bands (R). Cut the finished assemblies to size.
3. Referring to the Movable Shelf drawing, Fig. 8, lay out the rear cord notches. Drilling a 3/4" hole at each corner allows you to easily turn your jigsaw.
Let’s make some drawers
1. Referring to the Cut List, rip and crosscut the drawer sides (S) and ends (T) to size.
2. Set up your table saw’s dado head, and cut grooves for the drawer bottom. As dimensioned on the Drawer drawing, Fig. 9, the cut should be wide enough for an easy sliding fit of the nominal 1/4" plywood. Make the groove 1/4" deep, and 1/4" from the lower inside edge of the sides and ends.
3. A drawer lock bit (see the Buying Guide) makes it easy to quickly build sturdy drawers. You’ll use one setup to rout both halves of the joint. Refer to the two-step set of drawings “Mastering the Drawer Lock Bit,” Fig. 10. Chuck a drawer lock bit into your table-mounted router as shown in Step 1, 15/32" above the table. Use a thin straightedge to set the lower vertical portion of the cutter flush with the fence. (NOTE: Confirm this setup with cuts in scrap drawer stock before routing your good parts.)
4. Position the bottom groove of the drawer side (S) against the fence where shown in Fig. 10, Step 1, and rout along the inner face of each part. Use a follower block of scrapwood to prevent tearout where the bit exits the wood.
5. Lay the drawer front/back (T) flat on the router table, with the groove facing down, and rout along each end as in Fig. 10, Step 2. Again, use a follower block to eliminate tearout.
6. Test-fit the pieces. If the joint is too tight, lower the bit slightly; if too loose, raise the bit. If the drawer front/back overhangs the side, move the fence to cover more of the cutter. Move the fence in the opposite direction if the side overhangs the front. Make a new pair of test cuts after each adjustment until you’re satisfied with the joint. When the setup is right, rout your drawer parts. Save the successful test pieces to use as set-up gauges the next time you use this bit.
7. Cut the drawer bottoms (U) to the size listed in the Cut List. Do a dry assembly of the drawer (without glue). Finish-sand all the drawer parts.
8. Working on a flat surface, glue and clamp the drawer assemblies (S/T/U), and check for square.
9. Rip and crosscut the drawer fronts (V) to size. Drill the holes for the drawer pulls, centering the hardware vertically and horizontally. Sand the fronts to final smoothness.
Craft a Pair of Doors
1. Cut the stiles (W) and rails (X) to the sizes shown in the Cut List. Referring to the Door drawing, Fig. 11, cut grooves centered in the inner edges of the stiles and rails to fit the thickness of the 1/4" plywood. See the Tip Alert for an easy way to center this groove.
2. With a dado blade in your table saw, form stub tenons centered on the ends of the rails (X). Refer to the Tenon Detail accompanying Fig. 11.
3. Cut the door panels (Y) to size, and finish-sand. Apply glue to the tenons, and clamp the doors, ensuring that they are square and flat.
4. When the glue dries, lay the doors in their installed position and drill the holes for the knobs. Finish-sand the doors.
Apply the Finish and Assemble
1. Check all parts and assemblies, and finish-sand where needed. Apply a clear finish (see the Buying Guide). Read “Working with Waterbornes” on page 31 for finishing tips for both spraying and brushing.
2. With the case on end, position the hinges with their ends 2" from the top and bottom of the door opening. As shown in Photo H, the front edge of the hinge leaf is flush with the front edge of the carcase. Using a self-centering bit in the hinge holes, drill pilot holes, then screw the hinges to the carcase.
3. Position the door in the opening, shimming it in place with 1/16"-thick spacers. Again using a self-centering bit in the hinge holes, drill pilot holes into the door stile (W) as shown in Photo I.
4. Set the case upright, remove the shims, and fasten the knobs to check the action of the doors.
5. Referring to Fig. 7, mount the door catch hardware on the door stile and the carcase.
6. Position the top (P) on the case flush at the back and centered side-to-side, and clamp it in place. Using the holes and the centers of the slots in the upper frame assembly as guides, drill pilot holes into the top and fasten with screws and flat washers. Don’t overtighen the screws in the slots—these will allow the top to move in response to seasonal changes in moisture content.
7. Disassemble the drawer slides by pulling them apart. The part that’s fastened to the carcase is called the carcase member, and the other piece is the drawer member. Rest the carcase members on the bottom and drawer shelf, and inset them 3/4" from the front edges of the carcase, as shown in Photo J. Screw the carcase members to the dividers with screws centered in the horizontal slotted holes.
8. Referring to Fig. 9, you’ll see that the centerline of the drawer members is 7/8" from the bottom edge of the drawer sides (S). Position the end of the drawer member flush with the face of the drawer end (T), and attach with the furnished screws. Slide the drawer boxes into the case.
9. Dry-fit the drawer fronts (V) in the case, shimming them with 1/16" spacers. Using the pull holes in the drawer front as guides, mark the drawer box front with a drill bit. Remove the drawer front, and drill 1/2" holes 1/8" deep into the drawer box end for screw head clearance.
10. Install the pulls to the drawer fronts (V). Apply double-faced cloth carpet tape to the back of the drawer fronts as shown in Photo K.
11. Reposition the drawer fronts in the carcase, spacing them with 1/16"-thick shims as shown in Photo L. Press firmly against the drawer boxes to adhere the fronts.
12. From the back of the carcase, push on the back of the drawer box to open it. Clamp the front and box assembly, being careful not to shift the position of the parts. Drill pilot holes through the back of the drawer end, and drive screws to join the box to the front.
13. Re-install the drawer to ensure that the drawer front is flush with the carcase. If you need to adjust the fit, remove the drawer and loosen the screws in the cabinet member so you can nudge its position. When the fit is perfect, drive screws through the round holes in the cabinet member to lock it in place.
14. Screw the back (L) to the carcase with No. 4 x 1" flathead screws.
About Our Builder/Designer
Fifty-one-year-old Ben Svec owns and operates Falls Millwork, a small custom furniture and cabinet shop outside of Ames, Iowa. One of his better-known specialties is designing and building liturgical furnishings for church interiors. Ben can be reached at bensvec@hotmail.com.
