
Cutting Through the Confusion of Saw Blade Types
When it comes to your wood shop tools, a table saw is one of the most versatile tools in your workshop. From ripping lumber to crafting intricate joinery, it does it all. But let’s be real for a second: how often do you question whether the types of table saw blades you’re using are actually the right ones? Sure, whatever you choose cuts, but is it allowing your woodworking equipment to do so efficiently, cleanly and without driving you to the brink of frustration?
In terms of table saw parts identification, you really need to understand your blades. If you’ve become a master at reworking sloppy joints, sanding rough edges or battling tear-out, there’s a good chance you’re using the wrong blade. Sorting through table saw blade types can be overwhelming, but the good news is that you don’t need a blade for every single job. With a little guidance, you can simplify your options, save time and turn your woodworking ideas into reality without any unnecessary effort. This table saw blade guide breaks down the different types of saw blades and finds the perfect fit for your projects.
Understanding the Types of Table Saw Blades
In general, blades with fewer teeth cut more quickly but more coarsely. Conversely, the more teeth a blade has, the slower and smoother it cuts.
The table saw blade you choose matters—a lot. Each blade type has a specific purpose, determined by the shape (or grind) of its teeth. Here are the table saw parts identification for the four primary types:
1. Flat Top Grind (FTG)
FTG blades feature teeth with square tops that chop through wood much like a chisel. These blades excel at ripping along the grain. They are:
- Fast-cutting and durable
- Not designed for smooth, clean finishes
- Ideal for breaking down thick hardwoods quickly
2. Alternate Top Bevel (ATB)
ATB blades have teeth angled across the top edge, alternating in opposite directions. This design slices through wood fibers cleanly, which makes it perfect for crosscutting. Key features include:
- Clean, smooth cuts
- Steeper bevel angles for finer finishes (but quicker dulling)
- Often marketed as “all-purpose” blades
3. Combination (ATBR)
Combination blades combine four ATB teeth with one raker (FTG) tooth in sets of five. They’re versatile, capable of both ripping and crosscutting. Here’s why woodworkers love them:
- Multipurpose functionality
- Better finish than FTG blades for crosscuts
- Perfect for those who don’t want to switch blades frequently
4. Triple-Chip Grind (TCG)
TCG blades alternate between raker teeth and chamfered teeth. This design roughs out the cut and then cleans it up. These types of table saw blades are made for:
- Cutting dense materials like plastic laminate and non-ferrous metals
- Handling materials that would quickly dull ATB teeth
- High durability for specialized tasks
Read more on table saw blade teeth and the kerfs they make.

Basic choices for your blade arsenal include (from left to right) a 24-tooth FTG, a 40-tooth ATB, a 50-tooth ATBR, and an 80-tooth TCG.
![]() Flat Top Grind (FTG) - No bevel angle |
![]() Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) |
![]() Combination: FTG interspersed with ATB teeth |
![]() Triple-Chip Grind (TCD): FTG teeth alternated with chamfered teeth |
Decoding Saw Blade Terminology
When exploring the types of table saw blades, you’ll often come across terms like “combination blade” or “all-purpose blade,” which describe their intended uses. Don’t let the names confuse you:
-
Combination: The original multipurpose blade, with 50 teeth arranged in ATBR sets. These are reliable for both ripping and crosscutting.
-
All-purpose: The modern 40-tooth ATB blade is slightly more popular, offering clean cuts across various tasks with fewer teeth than a combination blade.
Both of these table saw blade types are great options for general woodworking tasks and will keep you from constantly swapping blades.
Hook Angles Explained
Hook angles (or rake) refer to the angle of the tooth face relative to the blade’s center. This detail affects how aggressively the blade cuts:
-
Positive hook angles (15°–20°): Ideal for ripping tasks and general table saw use.
-
Zero or negative hook angles: Great for radial arm and miter saws because they prevent self-feeding and are safer for these applications.
For most table saw blade tasks, a positive hook angle blade will meet your needs, offering efficient and controlled cuts.

Choosing the Best Saw Blade for the Job
Whether you’re ripping lumber, crosscutting, or working with sheet goods, having the right blade on your woodworking equipment makes all the difference. Let’s dive into the specifics.
Ripping
Ripping is cutting along the grain of the wood. It requires a blade designed for speed and efficiency.
-
24-Tooth FTG: Perfect for rough ripping and breaking down thick hardwoods. It’s fast and aggressive but leaves a rough surface.
-
40- or 50-Tooth All-Purpose: Offers cleaner cuts but requires slower feed rates, especially in dense hardwoods.
For final dimensions, consider ripping slightly oversized and cleaning up the cut with a jointer or sanding.
To best scrutinize cut quality on a workpiece, hold it up to a strong, sweeping sidelight in a darkened shop, and look for tooth marks and splintering. It helps to know when to sharpen saw blades.
Crosscutting
Crosscutting is cutting across the grain and demands precision to avoid tear-out and rough edges.
-
60- to 100-Tooth ATB: These specialized blades excel at making smooth, clean cuts in lumber and plywood.
-
40-Tooth ATB or 50-Tooth Combination: While not as precise as a dedicated crosscutting blade, these are great for general use.
For most projects, a 40-tooth ATB blade is sufficient. Save your 80-tooth blade for delicate cuts or when you’re mitering or working with premium materials.
When dull, a blade cuts poorly, requires more feed pressure, and can burn even when clean. The best way to gauge sharpness is to compare a current cut against a sample cut made when the blade was new or freshly sharpened.
Learn how to determine if your blades are dull or just dirty
Working with Sheet Goods
Sheet goods like plywood, MDF, particleboard and melamine present unique challenges. Here are the best table saw blades for the job:
-
Plywood: Use an ATB blade with a high tooth count to minimize tear-out. An 80-tooth blade is excellent for delicate veneers.
-
MDF and Particleboard: Both are dense and hard on blades. A 60- to 80-tooth ATB blade provides clean cuts, but expect some wear.
-
Plastic Laminate: Invest in a TCG blade for durability and precision. ATB blades will dull quickly on this tough material.

Thin-Kerf Saw Blades: A Lighter Option
Thin-kerf blades are about 3/32" thick, compared to standard 1/8" blades. They require less power from your saw, making them ideal for cutting thick hardwoods with underpowered saws. However, they can flutter slightly, leaving a rougher edge. Pairing a thin-kerf blade with a blade stabilizer can minimize these issues.
| JOB | BLADE CHOICE | COMMENTS |
|---|---|---|
| Ripping solid wood |
24-tooth FTG | This "rip" blade cuts fast but course. It's good for initial rough-sizing of pieces. |
| 40-tooth ATB or 50-tooth ATBR combination blade | Cuts slower but cleaner. Premium-quality blades require little or no cleanup. | |
| Crosscutting solid wood and general plywood sawing | 40-tooth to 80-tooth ATB or 50-tooth ATBR combination blade | Blades with more teeth generally cut cleaner, but a top-quality 40-tooth blade may cut better than a mediocre 80-tooth blade. |
| Joinery | 40-tooth ATB or 50-tooth ATBR combination blade | A premium-quality blade will create glue-ready joints cutting across or with the grain. |
| Sawing MDF, melamine, and particleboard | 40-tooth to 80-tooth ATB or TCG | ATB blades tend to cut cleaner but dull faster than TCG blades. |
| Sawing plastic laminate, nonferrous metal, and plastics | 80-tooth TCG | ATB blades can be used instead but may blunt quickly in these dense materials. |
FTG, flat-top grind; ATB, alternate-top bevel; ATBR, alternate-top bevel with raker; TCG, triple-chip grind
Even the best table saw blades won’t cut as it should if your saw isn’t tuned up. For the clean cuts, make sure your rip fence and miter gauge slots are aligned perfectly parallel to your blade. The Secret to Cleaner Cuts: Dialing In Your Table Saw.
Recommendations for Your Workshop
To keep your woodworking equipment running smoothly, here are four primary table saw blade types every woodworker should consider:
-
All-Purpose or Combination (40- or 50-Tooth): Perfect for 90% of your table saw tasks, including ripping and crosscutting. Expect to spend $80 to $110 for a premium blade that minimizes tear-out and delivers clean results.
-
Dedicated Rip (24-Tooth FTG): If you frequently work with hardwoods, this blade will save wear and tear on your all-purpose blade. A good rip blade costs around $50.
-
80-Tooth Crosscutting: Great for making precise cuts in lumber, plywood and delicate sheet goods. Use this blade when quality matters most.
-
TCG: If your projects involve plastic laminate or non-ferrous metals, this is a must-have to protect your ATB blades from premature wear.
As your table saw blade collection grows, you’ll need to build a blade safe to hold them all.
Time to Get Cutting
Using what you’ve learned in this table saw blade guide, choosing the right blade doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Check out this video from Jonathan Katz-Moses for more on selecting table saw blades, types, uses, and buying advice. With your newfound understanding of the types of table saw blades, the only thing left to do is grab the right blade, get to work and watch your woodworking ideas come together with cleaner cuts and less frustration.
Content for this article is updated from the original post by Paul Anthony.



