Pinnacle - Matched Chip Breaker and Blade Set, 2"W for Stanley Handplanes #4 and #5
Ships for Free
Revive your Antique Stanley/Bailey hand plane with these premium Blade and Chipbreaker Sets. Premier quality A-2 Pinnacle/IBC blades have been matched with an innovative chipbreaker design that can...
Item 150812Model RBMS-0394
Item 150053Model RBBL-0320
Item 153918Model 153918W
Item 153919Model 153919W
- Razor Sharp - “Out Of The Box”
- 0.140” Thick A-2 Tool Steel
- Double Tempered To 60-62 HRc
- Fully Stress Relieved
- Cryogenically Treated and Air Hardened
- Fully Demagnetized
- Precision Ground Top/Bottom
- Precision Ground/Hand Polished Sides
- Ships with Micro-Thin, Water-Soluble Rust Inhibitor
Cosman Chipbreaker Specification:
- 0.125” Thick O-1 Tool Steel
- Hardened to 30-32HRc l
- Precision machined, sharpened mating edge l
- Precision Matched - Ground and Serialized to each Blade l
- Revolutionary Blade Adjuster Tabs l
- Precision ground hand polished edges l
- Flat to 0.0005” across leading edge
little to no tear-out
Good and Effective Plane Iron
The original surfacing is not truly flat as advertised but close enough. It's pretty easy to sand it flat. The chipbreaker has a design flaw, the screw hole is too near the adjuster catch. When I adjust the blade down before the iron sharp edge managed to protrude the mouth, the screw on the frog which held the ensembly stop the blade from moving forward... The only way is to make the chipbreaker further apart from the iron edge. The iron is thick enough to give good results regardless of the chipbreaker. Also to get it to work properly, the mouth of the plane has to be opened quite a fair bit. After setting up, I plane a pine and it managed to leave a very smooth surface. The surface did not gleam as I had with wooden planes but nonetheless smooth enough. The shavings are thin. I will try it out on hardwood sometime later probably. Overall this is a good iron; although there are iron which I have tried and used and performed just as well (or better) and less hassle in setting in up.
i use these in all my planes
guys first off send your planes to a machine shop to be trued flat about 50 dollars saves hours of labor and wasted sand paper. second these are the perfect pairing for a restored plane being put back into service. unmatched edge retension and ease of sharpening.
A beautifull piece of machine work
An investment that is worth every penney of the cost. This set is perfectly machined and fits like a glove in my old Stanely/Bailey #5. Right out of the box it produced the finest of shavings.
A luxury upgrade to your hand plane
I had debated on whether or not to buy this set for a while. The biggest issue I had was the price. I wont say its a bad price because I am sure a lot goes into the production of these but for people like me who are lower income its not easy to place the order. I did end up getting this set recently and I believe it is a real luxury to have. The blade comes as described needing only a few min of honing before use. I did have to file the mouth of my plane a little which was rather easy. My set came with the DVD by Rob Cosman which gives you all the info you need on tuning up your plane and fitting the blade. The dvd does not play well in my player which I have read in other reviews. Maybe thats why its included when you buy? Never the less it was not a big deal, the real deal was the blade itself. I got this blade for my Stanley Baily #4. Once the plane and blade where ready I tried it out on some Cherry wood. The first thing I noticed wasn't the thin shavings but the fact that there was no give to the massive blade and breaker as it cut through the Cherry. When using the original Stanley blade I would often get chatter, chipping and tear out. With the new blade and breaker I did not experience any of that. I tested the blade on Cherry, Maple, Oak and Mahogany and it cut through all of them with the same ease. My over all thoughts are You can still get great results and super thin shavings with an old blade thats been fine tuned and sharpened. You just wont have as comfortable of a time planing as you will with the massive IBC blade and breaker. I don't know that I would put these blades in all of my planes but it sure is a nice luxury to have one in my smoother. If money is no issue then I would not hesitate in buying, if your on a strict budget I might wait for a sale or explorer some other options.
So far, so good!
The video was invaluable.
Wow! What a great iron!
Used it to complete restoration of a WW1 vintage Stanley no 4, purchased on [...]. It was ready for honing right out of the box. About 2-3 minutes worth of effort it was razer sharp. Produces whisper thin shavings. The only negative was the accompanying DVD. Had to return it twice, before getting one that would play on even one of my four DVD players. I still does not play on all of them. Not a real problem though, just a minor irritant.
So far so good
Though I added a con, it really isn't that bad. Just have to file the throat a little larger. The fit and finish of the set is impressive and took me less than 15 min to put on a polished 30 deg. micro bevel on it. And it was very straight, which I'm not used to so I had to put pressure on the edges to give it a slight crown. Haven't watched the video or used it yet.
Very sharp out of the wrapper
The blade is very sharp out of the wrapper. Be careful or you may cut yourself. Rob Cosman's DVD with set will show you new tricks on how to tune your antique plane. Excellent.
With the help of these blades, Rob Cosman's DVD and several books, magazines and the Internet, I was able to restore my wife's great-grandfather's Millers Falls #9 smooth plane. Honestly, this was the first time I've even looked at a handplane since high school shop class. I can't tell you how satisfying it was to get that shaving on the first try.
Lovin' my old Stanley
This plane blade and chip breaker set delivered just as advertised. My old Stanley #4 works like it never had before. I must say though, that this didn't happen just by putting the blade in the plane. I had to put a micro bevel on the blade itself, move back the frog and file open the mouth of the plane to allow for the thicker blade. Fortunately, Rob Cossman's DVD explained how to do these things. Without it, the novice woodworker might struggle to make it fit. Once done though, heaven. Would have given this a 4 star rating if it hadn't come with the DVD. Make sure that it is included in the package when you purchase this set, or you could be sorry....
It works just as advertised!
What a difference an iron makes
I've been tuning my hand planes for a while. Getting them flat enough to able to produce good fine shavings and a flat surface but there has always been a downfall. The blade. I use alot of A2 in my shoulder planes and block planes and wanted one so I can hold a decent edge for longer in my bench planes with the intention of using my belt sander less. I did a little research online looking through numerous brands and came across this set. I was caught by the fact that the blades come from the guys that make Veritas blades and I own and love their stuff. I gave it a go and wow. You get 1 massive plane iron. So thick that when you pick it up it puts a grin on your face. 1 massive chipbreaker that fits like it grew there. I was pretty excited to give it go but it was late and time for bed. The problem was that Woodcraft threw in Rob's DVD. So I just sneak a preview and I ended up watching the whole thing. His shop videos are great and as always I learnt some great tricks. The main one was his tertiary micro bevel. I normally just hone a secondary till it's sharp. Then it came to getting it working. I had the advantage of watching Rob do it all the day before and my plane was already tuned so all I had to do was move the frog back and make some adjustments to the mouth and I was ready to fit the blade. Out comes the sharpening station. 30 degree secondary and a 31 micro tertiary, a pretty tiny camber, the old ruler trick on my 8000 waterstone and I'm there. We are talking about a minutes prep on the blade. The chipbreaker is good to go. To give it the best possible chance I checked the edge with a magnifine glass just to be sure. It was immaculate. Okay now let's see how it goes. I set the mouth to just under a 32nd and get some wood up on the bench. Easy straight grained pine - Perfect. No tear out. I take fat shavings, thin shavings, all effortless. It's so much fun I've got a length of 2 x 1 that's now more like 1 x 1. So that was too easy. Some straight grained European oak - Still way to easy. There is now more shavings than wood. I'm thinking, shouldn't I be sharpening by now? Nevermind this piece of oak is way too big for my liking anyway so I cut it down to size. I'm checking for tear out but there just isn't any. Okay time to test it. I pull up this piece of Iroko. My HSS blades nemesis. HSS and Iroko means blunt iron and an unhappy face. So I attack it. I'm cutting a fairly thick shaving and it still cutting easily but I have got some tear out in the reversing grain. I hate you Iroko I think. I keep taking shaving anyway just to see if the edge will dull or fail. I decide to be fair to the iron and have a quick sharpen and take a fair size shaving. I'm on the stone for a minute. A quick go on the 1000 to get a burr, micro bevel on the 8000, a little camber, ruler trick the back and to be honest I had another quick look up close at it. From the way it polished this second time I knew it was even sharper than last time but I had to take a look. So back in the plane in a flash (I'm going to completely omit the fact that I lost my 6 inch rule in the pile of shavings on my bench which took me 4 mins to find!) Anyway back to that piece of Iroko. I dialed in the plane to the finest shaving and started to have a go at that tear out. Well it was going. I planned it all off easily, leaving behind just in the worst places that kind of micro tear out. I mean I was looking at the wood close up in 6 x magnification and I could just get the hint of tear out. I wiped the edge over with a bit of 400 grit to see if I could get some dust in it to make the tear out more prononced but it was flawless. I was, well, gobsmacked. I squared it up, touched it with some 400 (literally a wipe) and put a light coat of my favourite varnish on it and set it to one side. Then I spotted a little practice dovetail I cut the other day. Made out of inch and quarter oak, 2 inch wide, with one huge tail. The plane was still set super fine so i started cleaning up the tail face. I was being careful, alot of scew to give it a chance on the end grain of the pin board. These cuts were and still are amazing to me. Absolutely perfect. I normally clean this kind of work up with my low angle plane cause it's the only thing I've got with A2 steel that can take it and I'm always frustrated by chatter, blade edge failure lack of control and weight. No more. It cut to a glass like finish easily even with barely any scew it kept on cutting. No edge failure which normally makes little lines in the end grain. Now I'm really smiling. Okay let's see what you think about the top of the tail that's over an inch thick. It cut like a laser and my smile is getting uncomfortable. I have never used A2 steel this good. The edge just wouldn't break, chip, dull or burr. I'm now planing with a tiny 10 degree scew and the shavings just keep coming. Glass finish. Soon this dovetail will only be half inch. Then I realise one thing. I am a really satisfied customer and that's saying something these days! Thanks Rob. Thanks IBC. Thanks Woodcraft. Oh and back to the varnished Iroko. Absolutely amazing. Flawless glass finish.