Straight Back Saw
These small saws provide superb control for cutting dovetails, small joints, cutoffs, and many other shop tasks. Tempered steel blades have rigid steel or brass backs to keep them straight during...
- Stained European Beech Handle
- 9-3/4 Rip Tooth
- 1-7/8" Depth of Cut
- 15-1/2 TPI with .031" kerf
- Made in Germany
Articles & Blogs
Working with your hands in creating fine furniture is not a thing of the past. The old adage of “what you put into your work, is what you get out of it”, still holds true today. Rob Cosman is the epitome of this statement. Teaching handcut joinery is a small yet essential part of woodworking when using dovetail construction. Experience is the other piece that comes in time. When you first start in any venue of woodworking, you sometimes need an expert to help you along. Rob Cosman, Your Hand Tool Coach has been inspiring new and experienced woodworkers with fine woodworking techniques for many years. His insight, wisdom and patience goes beyond perfection. If you have attended any of his classes, shows, or workshops, you know what I am talking about. He captures the audience right from the start as he really gets into what he does best… sharing and teaching.
Terrible out of the box, easy to fix
I wanted a nice dovetail saw, I didn't want to pay for one. I bought this and 2 saw files. Out of the package the teeth are dull and the kerf is a mile wide. I jointed the teeth, filed it hybrid, and removed most of the set on an anvil. I fine tuned the set on an oil stone until it cut straight. Then I reamed the handle off, cut off the back corner, and made a proper handle. Now it cuts like a dream. Perfectly straight cuts with little effort at all. Picture it as buying a steel plate stamped with teeth. The rest is up to you.
On consideration, not bad
I bought this saw over a year ago, and I've been using it occasionaly to make (very) rough cuts in small pieces. I'd never really been happy with it, but it was the best tool I had for cuts that small. Finally, yesterday, I sat down to try to figure out what was wrong with it once and for all. After a lot of consideration, while I was checking to make sure the blade wasn't kinked, I realized the kerf it was cutting was something like 3 times the width of the blade. The set was so much that it was allowing a full blade-width on each side of the plate. Right... that's easy to fix. I decided to go with the hammer method, just because I had a hammer and anvil handy and my sharpening stones were in the other room... a very light tap with a light hammer on each set of teeth, backed with an anvil, and the set is substantially less: I'd say around 1.25 times the thickness of the plate. The blade still needs to be sharpened (that happens when you use a saw for over a year), but it cuts far faster, and with a better finish, than it used ot. So the saw is quite serviceable, but you're not buying a ready-to-use tool. You'll likely need to remove some of the set, and it may also need sharpening; be aware that sharpening teeth this small is kind of a nuisance. I've done larger saws, but I don't even have the right file to work on teeth thsi small.
Learn To Sharpen The Saw
At your local library, take out a copy of and watch Frank Klausz's DVD called "Hand Tools: Tuning and Using Chisels, Planes, and Saws." In this video Klausz shows in detail how to set and sharpen a dovetail saw with the Deer Brand Logo on the blade. In a short time on the video Klausz makes the saw sing! And he shows how not too difficult it is to learn to sharpen the saw yourself.
Don't judge a book by its cover
Doesn't cut well. Also too thick.
Great saw, after a little tuning up
I use a lot of these due to low price and decent quality. Kerf is bit wide for easy control and finish out of the box, but that can be easily remedied by removing most of the set with a white Arkansas or equivalent slip. That reduces the 0.031" kerf to around 0.023", which cuts straighter and a LOT smoother, with greater speed and less effort. Further work with the slip reduces the kerf to 0.021", perfect for cutting guitar fret slots -- in fact, this saw seems to be the only one I can find suitable for that job, even from luthier's suppliers.
The cheap comes out expensive
It isn't expensive, but does not pay. OK for services that do not require a perfect finish.
good for the price
This saw was good for the price but I definitely plan on an upgrade in the future.