Nova Cole Jaw Set
These versatile jaws of sturdy 3/8" thick cast aluminum with a 10" diameter have the same basic configuration as the smaller 25mm and 50mm units and can expand into a 95-117mm (3-3/4"-4-5/8")...
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- 3/8" thick cast aluminum
- Will expand into a 95-117mm (3-3/4"-4-5/8") dovetailed recess
- Will clamp the outside of a turned dovetailed foot 84-104mm (3-5/16"-4-1/8") in diameter
- 8 rubber stoppers
- Maximum speed of 600 RPM
Articles & Blogs
A Knoxville, Tennessee, couple celebrated their 10th wedding anniversary sailing along the Norwegian Coast on a woodturning cruise as a result of winning the NOVA sweepstakes.
more engineering needed
I was really looking forward to the versatility these jaws would give my nova2 chuck. unfortunately these jaws are cast and really do not seat well on the chuck. They are painful to change the holders as the screws are slot and the holders are way too flexible. For very small projects only or be prepared for flying objects! I just don't use these jaws anymore as I cannot trust them to hold a project much larger than 1 or 2 inched deep just as the picture shows)even then the turning wobbles.
Not worth the money for serious turning
Two rubber knobs broke the second time I used it. A light catch pulled the piece out and broke the knobs. Couldn't find replacement knobs. A dedicated tool for this would be better, as having to take the chuck apart and put it back together after each use is a waste of time.
I've not used it yet.
It seems that adjustment time from one size to another may be excessive but I don't have a clue how to get around that.
Not exactly what I had in mind
I got this as a gift, and even though I checked the ad before I asked for it, it's nowhere near what I envisioned, given the pic in the ad. I'm not a pro turner, but I do turn things for sale at arts-and-crafts shows. To start with, I guess I had a "term not allowed by Woodcraft" attack and didn't realize that to use it for what I intend, I'd have to buy another 4-jaw chuck, since I have no intention of installing and removing this thing every time I need it. It also seems to be not beefy enough to do what I need it to do, which is hold objects VERY firmly (although maybe nothing on the market will do what I have in mind). It seems that, for me anyway, it would have only limited use, ecpecially since I don't do many turnings where I have to, for example, take the bottom off an already-finished object. In short, I'll be returning it ASAP.
Found the jaws very useful for bowls and yoyo's. Had trouble mounting first time to get each plate to seat in the alignment groove. Screws were binding add forcing plates out of alignment groove. solved by enlarging the holes without affecting the seat area in the screw holes to mount each plate to the chuck.
Do what they're meant to do
I'm somewhat new to wood turning, and was not interested in the methods using glue, newspaper and/or tape. If you tighten the screws, it will cause the rubber material to bulge, but that is common sense. Rubber is flexible. So do yourself a favor and don't over tighten them. I actually don't use my screwdriver to take them on and off to change positions. I just screw them in (the rubber is pretty tight to the screw) until they're slightly snug. The bowl/object will keep them from turning and unscrewing/spinning out. When done this way, there is no bulge, they are quick to adjust and have worked great for me for many bowls. When reading the instructions, I noted that it said to use a light, head-stock directed cut. They also state to use less than 600 RPM's. Well, the RPM thing was taken into consideration, but using light cuts with the focus being directed at the headstock (in addition to the above method of peg usage) has worked great for me! I have had no bowls come flying off, and they are all very secure. As a note, in my design I try to implement anything other than a straight side. So, if they taper inward, I put the pegs on the inside. If they taper outward, I place the pegs on the outside. If I did have a straight-sided bowl, I would probably purchase the longer finger-type pegs. Also of note: These are not the normal, precise-fitting jaws. Probably more precise than any add-on wooden jaws we would make, but they will not be perfect. However, make sure you align the grooves. It does take some work, and I am currently in the market for a second chuck to leave these permanently mounted too. Anyway, while not perfectly flat, this does not affect their bowl-holding ability. You're going to have some difference in axis just by turning your blank in the same chuck by 45 degrees (any chuck, any mounting method), so any lack of flatness (unless grossly imperfect) is probably not going to affect the outcome. They aren't meant to turn 20 pound blocks of wood, or for extended periods of time, but to turn the tennons of object (at least, IMO). When used as such, they work perfect!
Works As Advertised
Great tool does what they say it will do. I did have problems getting the groves lined up, but not sure if I should blame the tool or my eye sight!
Now I can finish the bottom of my bowls.
Works great for cutting off the tenon on my bowls.
I use these primarily to turn a tenon off of the bottom of the bowl. Unfortunately, they simply don't work very well. The bowls will pop out of the jaws, even when using a very light cut. And I've tried every type of cut--gouges and scrapers. Now I place several pieces of blue tape over the bowl and that seems to help a lot. I suggest that the rubber pads be redesigned so that they are tapered to pull the bowl towards the headstock.
Product works fine but the screws that hold the rubber to the jaws are standard slot and should be a hex head to make them easier to take off and on to change sizes.
Cole Jaw Set
I use this product to turn bowls. It works well. It holds the bowl firmly. The pieces don't fall into position withour some moving around.
Easy jaws to use
Make sure the bowl is tight in the jaws, or your bowl will fly across the shop!
This is a great tool that does exactly what it is advertised to do. I wish however that they had used solid Aluminum rather than cast metal as the tool could then be customized to handle specialty projects by drilling and tapping your own hold down locations. As it is the casting has built up ribs where the threaded holes are and is thin in all other locations.
Better than previous one I had.
Great for removing tenons on wood turnings.
A bad day near China
I guess quality is 2nd to our friends down under. The aluminum plates were not cast flat. Tried to move them to different location on the chuck, no luck.Old ones are going back, new ones coming soon, I hope.