This threadbox and tap, for cutting external and internal threads in wood, is useful for making clamps, jigs, fixtures, knockdown furniture, toys, and novelties. Although traditional in design, modern technology and metallurgical advances have improved the traditional threadbox and tap...
Details
Features:
- Designed to allow easy chip clearance
- Steel tap is machined to close tolerances
- Cutting of external and internal threads in wood
- Useful in making clamps, jig, and fixtures
- Hardwood threadbox with turned handles has aluminum inserts to prevent wear
Instructions / MSDS
Articles & Blogs
When it’s okay to screw up your wood
With the Wood Threading Kit—which offers precision cutters—you can make short work of cutting both inside and outside threads, though a few precautions are in order.
Problem Solving Products: Issue 21
Anybody who collects antiques knows of the myriad of applications that old world woodworkers found for threaded dowels (see “Best Applications” on page 69). The large, coarse threads offer remarkable holding power and an astonishing degree of torque. And now, with the Wood Threading Kit—which offers precision cutters—you can make short work of cutting both inside and outside threads, though a few precautions are in order.
Reviews
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Perfect; better than expected
Very impressed. My first try produced perfect threads on both the bolt and nut side. Both the tap & die cut effortlessly and the threads are perfect. Bolt side is a maple dowel with good clean grain. I applied a couple of coats of linseed oil and chamfered the end. Started with mild downward pressure then turn a full turn, back up about 1/8 turn to clear, and repeat. Nut side is 1" thick Myrtle. Same routine as the bolt... a few drops of linseed on the tap; turn, back up a little, turn...etc. Only one very minor complaint... no instructions on how to adjust the blade.
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Liked very much.
I will use a lot
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Great tool
Great tool for my post and beam construction outdoor living area project. I have some of the same tools from the mid 1700s but have always been worried about damaging them.
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didn,t work as anticipated
after 3rd use cutter jammed and havent been able to put back in use.Could use some picture on assembly after disassembly
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I Like it - Will buy more sizes
Good idea to lubricate dowel first. I didn't have Linseed or Tung oil but Teak oil worked fine. The use of a disk sander for chamfering the dowel makes it much easier to start the threads. 3/4 inch dowel cutter doesn't work with true 3/4 inch dowel, but rocks with 11/16 inch dowel. For 3/4 inch broom handle or dowel I would suggest the 1 inch cutter (die). Should be a picture or illustration of dowel cutter to show that the dowel needs to be inserted in smooth bored starting block, where the cutter is, to cut the thread. 3/4 inch tap worked great with suggested 5/8 inch hole. I had no problem cutting thread in block of fir with or without lubricant (teak oil in my case). It did chip out on surface of block where I started the tap. A counter sink to chamfer the hole probably would prevent that, but I don't have one that large. I have nothing negative to say about product, but practice on a few scraps is a good idea.
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I Love It
I am making a combination magazine rack and toilet paper holder for our daughter using red oak. Since it will be our grandson's bathroom, I made what looks like the head of a bolt (six sided) in oak. I also bought the bottoming cutter since I did not want the dowling that holds the toilet paper to go completely through the bolt heads. Worked great and the treads were not tight at all. They will easily turn my bolt heads 2 or 3 turns to pull out the dowling and change rolls.
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