Holding An EdgeComments (0)
This beautiful scrapwood box is the perfect
display case for a handmade knife.
By Doug Stowe
I made two boxes using interesting pieces of wood: a solid chunk of spalted maple (the focus of this project), and offcuts of redwood burl from a friend’s sculpture. I hope they will inspire you to search through your (or your friend’s) scrap pile for exotic or highly figured piece of wood in just the right size.
I first cut the bottom from the base of the box. When working from a piece of solid wood, it is best to make this thinnest cut first. Then set the fence to cut right at the center of the remaining stock. Fig. 1 shows this cut with the box bottom in the foreground.
Use the knife or a knife blank to trace the pattern on the base, being careful to leave room for the 10mm barrel hinges at the back edge of the box (Fig. 2).
Cut out the interior. I chose to cut into the end of the stock, using the scroll saw to begin my cut. You could also choose to begin your cut by drilling a starting hole and eliminate the need for gluing the starting cut closed. To close the starting cut, simply use a piece of card stock to apply glue to the inside of the cut (Fig. 3) and then clamp it together. After the interior is cut in the lower part of the box, align the grain in the top, base and bottom of the box and trim the ends so that all three parts are the same length.
the hinge holes
Set up the fence on the drill press to control the distance from the hinge to the back of the box, and set the depth of the drill to match the required depth for the of the drill to match the required depth for the hinge. Then with a stop block positioned on the drill press fence, drill a hole all the way through the story stick (Fig. 4). Flip the story stick over and lower the drill (not running) through the hole drilled in the last step. With the drill locked in position, clamp a stop block in place on the right side of the fence (Fig. 4, inset). With stop blocks in position on the left and right, drill the holes for the hinges to fit in the base and lid. If you have followed these steps and the lid and base are exactly the same length, the holes will be in perfect alignment.
As the holes are drilled for the hinges, the base and lid are of equal thickness and shape. Then the lid can be cut thinner and angled to make the box more interesting. Use double-stick tape again to hold the lid to the sliding fence and tilt the arbor 7°, making sure that the back of the lid still has sufficient thickness for the depth of the hinges.
Before installing the hinges, rout for a lift tab to fit the lid. Use a 1/8" straight router bit to make this cut by sliding the lid between stops along the router table fence (Fig. 5).
Sand the top of the base and the inside surface of the lid prior to installing the hinges. Then simply press the hinges in place and tighten the locking screws (Fig. 6). After the box is assembled you can provide additional shaping with the table saw to complement the angle of the lid (Fig. 7). For a final finishing touch you might want to consider flocking the interior, or lining it with glued-in felt.
Rather than make the lid and bottom the same shape as
the base of the box, I cut the bottom slightly smaller to provide a slight
overhang and I shaped the lid to provide for an integral pull. Both of these
design elements result in a box with a look distinct from the spalted maple
give additional interest to my sculpted redwood box, I used black leather dye
on the lid and bottom before the box was assembled and finished. Simply wipe on
the dye, and then use steel
wool to polish the wood to bring back some of the interesting burled wood
grain. Apply glue carefully to the bottom of the box before gluing it in place.
You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In