|jig’s base. Screw the top 2x6 in place
onto the jig base allowing for a ½"
offset along two ends and one edge.
(The boards must be flat to work
properly.) Also, cut two ½"-thick scrap
pieces to 7" wide and one to 13" wide
to “box in” the sides and back during
assembly and nail them to the base.
Test-fit the sides and back in the jig by
wedging them in the ½" gap (Fig. 3).
Next, predrill through the back and
into the sides to create pilot holes for
1½"-long finish nails. Now, remove
the pieces, add glue along their joining
edges, and slip them back into the jig
to hold them in place. Drive the nails.
It seems simple, but the jig really does
help keep everything square. And if it
does not stay square, well, you’ll know,
especially when the time comes to slip
the drawer in place.
Add the fixed top, front,
shelf, lid and bottom
Continue the box assembly by gluing
and nailing on the fixed top and front.
Using a small square and pencil, draw
opposing guidelines on the inside walls
of the box from the bottom edge of
the front. These should be perpendicular
to the front edges of the sides.
Now, test-fit the shelf inside the box,
aligning the ends with the guide lines
and one edge with the bottom edge of
the front. Draw a guideline along the
back edge, remove the shelf, apply glue
along the guidelines, then fit it back in
place. Drill pilot holes and drive in a
||few nails to hold in place.
Next, apply a pair of 1½" x 1¼"
hinges to the fixed top. Using business
cards as spacers in the seam between
the lid and fixed top, center and screw
the remaining hinge leaves atop the
beveled edge of the lid (Fig. 4).
Finally, rest the box on its back and
center the bottom on the box. You
should have a ½" offset at both ends
and along the front edge. If the bottom
is flat and the alignment is even, you’re
home free with the assembly. Note that
there is no offset on the back of the salt
box because you want the box to hang
flat on the wall for the best look. With
the bottom clamped in place, drill pilot
holes for finish nails. Now, apply glue
to the bottom edges of the box and
drive three finish nails in each side.
Build a solid drawer frame
Cut the drawer front, back, and sides
to the sizes in the Cut List. Cut the
½" rabbets ¼" deep on the ends of
the sides using the crosscut sled or a
miter gauge with an auxiliary fence
and a ½"-wide dado set. Don’t have a
dado set? No problem. Just mark ½"
in from the end of the sides and make
multiple passes with your 1/8"-wide
saw blade up to the mark. This technique
requires you to securely hold
the drawer sides flat to the sled or saw
table with the workpiece held firmly
to the fence.
Now, switch to a ¼" dado
raised ¼" high. Adjust the fence as shown below and cut the grooves on
||the front and sides ¾" from the bottom
edge. You can also do this with
a 1/8" blade by adjusting the fence as
needed to “sneak” up on the needed
groove width. Test the fit with the plywood
you intend to use for the drawer
bottom. There should be very little
Slip in the drawer bottom
Drill a pair of pilot holes 1" down
from the top edge and 2-¾" in from
the ends of the front. Then, cut the