|When a woodworker’s mind turns to maple, it revives images of golden autumn hues, sweet syrup, and honey-colored country furniture. And why not? Fall foliage of the sugar maple (Acer saccharum) draws millions of leaf “peepers” to New England and the Great Lakes’ states each year. Its sap is the backbone of Vermont’s syrup industry, as well as that of Michigan and Wisconsin. en there’s its reputation as the “rock maple” employed in Early American tables, chairs, and other durable furniture. Yet, sugar maple is but one of six commercially available maple species, although the most renowned.|
|kitchenware, and millwork such as stairs, handrails, moldings, and doors. Turners cherish figured stock for bowls and platters. So maple (25% “softer” than hard maple or equal to oak) o en substitutes for hard maple or is stained to resemble other species such as cherry.||Except for the bigleaf maple,
a stalwart resident of the Pacific
Northwest, most so maple comes
from the Mid-Atlantic States,
principally southern Virginia
through the Carolinas, although it
does grow around the Great Lakes.
Due to so maple’s widespread
growth, it’s more susceptible to
regional color variations than its
cousin hard maple.
What you’ll pay
Combined, hard and so maple account for nearly 10% of all commercially available hardwoods, so it’s safe to say that maple is widely available. You’ll pay less for hard maple closer to its source, but count on a board foot cost of about $4.80 for 4/4 stock surfaced two sides (S2S). So maple should run $1 or so less, and figured wood quite a bit more.
Plywood (4x8 sheets) comes in thicknesses from 1/8" to 3/4", with the thickest and best grade running close to $125 a sheet. You can count on a price of $20 or so for a square foot of figured veneer. How to select the best stock In grading maple, variance in color makes no difference. Some sellers, however, may up the price for the more highly desirable, whiter
Where it comes from
As a cold weather tree that favors a more northerly climate, hard maple grows best in the upper Midwest and New England (two-thirds of the lumber originates there). You’ll nd the greatest stands of hard maple around the Great Lakes, in the St. Lawrence Valley, and northern New England, where trees can attain a height of 130'.
|Maple may have been the primary
stock of early New England
craftsmen for rustic furniture and
other household goods as well as
farm tools and implements. We
do know that hard maple was also
widely used for stocks on Kentucky
long rifles and, in curly figured,
for the backs of violins, hence the
term “fiddleback” maple (see photo
opposite page). And oddly enough,
the heels of women’s shoes were
made from it until the turn of the
century. Hard maple has long been
the standard for butcher block
and cutting boards, too, because it
imparts no taste to food and holds
up to cuts and scratches.
Today, the hard variety is widely used for home flooring, furniture, paneling, bowling alleys, gymnasium floors, kitchen cabinets, benchtops, tabletops, toys
Stock with heartwood and mineral streaks won’t
|cost you less, so be sure to sort and
the boards that match best. (Who
knows, you might run across
some figured stock in the sorting!)
Hard maple normally appears light tan to almost white in color, especially the most-valued sapwood. So maple tends to have a reddish tinge. And plain sawn stock traditionally exhibits straight, close grain. Figure, in boards and veneer, is more abundant in maple (both hard and so ) than in any other commercially available species. You’ll commonly nd burl, curly, quilted, and bird’s-eye. Note that “curly” is a very general term covering tiger, ddleback, and ame. Tiger has wider stripes spaced further apart than ddleback, and ame looks like ickering ames of uneven width. “Fiddleback”, as you might expect, commands a premium price.
Two premium-priced types of figured maple are created by decay. A somewhat rare type called spalted has dark ne streaks caused by decay fungus, and ambrosia maple consists of long dark broad streaks created by worm infestations. Working maple in the shop Few woods are as beautifully clear (no knots), close- and straightgrained as maple. However, its hardness
|machine knives. is adjusts the blades’ angle of attack so that they scrape more and slice less. Your machines will work a little harder, so you’ll want to take lighter cuts, but they’ll be less apt to tear out the grain.|
|can cause di culty. Follow
the advice below for shop success.
• Ripping and routing.
Always employ carbide blades and bits for hassle-free cutting. To reduce burning at the table saw (a rip blade with fewer than 28 teeth recommended), keep the wood moving at a moderately fast, even pace. (See “Tips for Burn Free Table Saw Cuts” on page 38) Likewise, don’t slow down your router.
• Jointing and planing Straight-grained maple machines like a dream, but figured maple is completely di erent. Feeding it across jointer and planer knives at an angle (a skewed cut tends to slice more and tear less) can help with lightly figured stock, but for serious curl, your best bet is a high-bed angle hand plane, a scraper, or power drum sander. If you’re planning to machine a pile of figured stock, you might want to ask your sharpener to add a 15° back bevel to your
|Because of its
to a glue that
o ers longer
open time, such
as Titebond II
let the glue set
up a bit before
you clamp. Drill
pilot holes if joining parts
with screws.you may need to make screw
slots to allow for wood movement. If you sand a er assembly, don’t overdo it. Using figrits for finish-sanding tends to burnish the wood, adding problems when staining.